Beinn a' Chaorainn via The East Ridge. 4th November 2012

One of many waterfalls we passed on the walk in. 04/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We awoke to a glorious morning and soon had the kettle on whilst we dismantled the tent, checked our climbing equipment and packed it before packing everything into the car. Although the cloud was shrouding the mountain tops, bursts of sunshine was piercing through the clouds giving us spectacular views across Loch Laggan. Jumping into the car with our hot brews we drove the short distance along the road to our starting point for the day.

The East Ridge of Beinn a' Chaorainn shrouded in mist. 04/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Our starting point for the day was a little lay bay just off the A86 when travelling west, park in the little lay by on the left just before a bridge that crosses Allt na h-Uamha (NN401819). Across the road from the lay by is a stile that leads to a very boggy foot path that runs north up the eastern side of the river until it is possible to cross (NN402824) the river on to the forestry track. Easier walking in a westerly direction leads to a junction (NN395824) in the tracks here we turned right and continue at 1st in a north easterly direction until eventually the track turned north. We soon emerged from the forest for a short distance before entering another forest, just beyond this forest we emerged on the open hillside (NN399851). Although not marked on the map the track does continue all the way to Bealach a' Bharnish.

Me starting our ascent of East Ridge, Beinn a' Chaorainn. 04/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Stopping for a bite to eat and a drink we bumped into a guy from Oban who we chatted with for some time before going our separate ways. Once refreshed we started our ascent to the starting point of the East Ridge of Beinn a' Chaorainn. Leaving the track the ground became very boggy and we started to make our ascent up the hillside to a small hillock (NN394849) and then descended to a small bealach (NN393850) where we geared up to start the ascent of the ridge. Looking back down down the hillside the track was completely snow free yet standing where we were everything was covered in snow and the temperature difference very noticeable.

Me on one of the many good steep rocky buttresses on the East Ridge, Beinn a' Chaorainn. 04/11/2012
(Photo: A J Thorley)

After flaking the rope and tying in I started to ascend the ridge at 1st the ground is steep and made up of loose rocks, it soon levels out just before the ridge starts to rise again. At this point I stopped and belayed Vicks up to me. I set up a belay and tied Vicks in before continuing. It is possible to avoid the difficulties and traverse round but we had decided to take them direct which gave some very pleasant mixed climbing. I over came the difficulties fairly quickly and then brought Vicks up to the second belay stance. I rearranged the stance and tied Vicks in before continuing, Again this pitch provided very pleasant climbing on mixed rock, snow and frozen turf. As we ascended we became more exposed to the wind, the cloud had also closed in around us and it was snowing.

Higher up on another rocky buttress on the East Ridge, Beinn a' Chaorainn. 04/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Vicks soon joined me at our third belay stance and after a brief chat we decided to take the left hand line up the next rocky buttress where I think this is the line where an ice fall forms. It proved to be good technical mixed climbing and really enjoyable, with good protection as well. I set myself up and belayed Vicks up to my new high point she arrived with a big grin on her face declaring, "that was awesome!" Looking a head I could see that the gradient was easing so we decided to take coils and moved together to the summit cairn of Beinn a' Chaorainn (NN386851).

Just above the belay, me on the final buttress of East Ridge, Beinn a' Chaorainn. 04/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the cairn we celebrated our success, took our packs off our shoulders and retrieved our much needed lunches. Two walkers approached the cairn I think they thought we were mad standing in a mess of climbing equipment and ropes, surrounded by low cloud happily munching away as it snowed. We chatted briefly and soon the walkers disappeared into the cloud. We finished our lunches and packed everything away before carefully taking a bearing and starting our descent back to the car.

Me at the summit of Beinn a' Chaorainn. 04/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Starting our descent from the central summit of Beinn a' Chaorainn we descended due south over the unnamed south top (NN386845) and continued in the same direction to a bealach (NN390831) where we contoured around Meall Bhaideanach (NN391831) in a westerly direction until we finally descended back to the track which we had used on the walk in. During our descent the low cloud cleared revealing spectacular views towards the mountains in the Ben Alder region. It was a fitting way to end two fantastic days in the Scottish Highlands and I am really looking forward to returning soon.

The view south as we walked out. Beinn a' Chlachair, Geal-Charn, Aonach Beag & Beinn Eibhinn. 04/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)