Quartzvein Scoop IV,4***, Coire Daimh. Beinn Udlaidh. 24th January 2013

Early morning view of Coire Daimh, Beinn Udlaidh. 24/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

 It was the usual early morning rise and this morning I was up and ready before the alarm clock went off. I had a restless night as I was so excited about meeting up my friend Brendan to go out do some winter climbing, my 1st attempt at winter climbing since injuring my thigh in the Northern Cairngorms. I was so keen to get going I was standing outside my flat 15 minutes before Brendan was due to pick me up and thankfully on this chilly morning Brendan as ever was on time.

Big B cruising up Quartzvein Scoop IV, 4***, Coire Daimh. Beinn Udlaidh. 24/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the Glen Orchy Farm (NN260347) It was obvious that the word had spread about there being good ice in Coire Daimh. Virtually all the car parking spaces were taken and Brendan only just managed to squeeze his car in. We jumped out, changed in to our climbing attire, checked and packed the climbing equipment and started the walk in.

The views of the cliffs of Coire Daimh from the 1st belay stance of Quartzvein Scoop IV,4***. Beinn Udlaidh. 24/01/2013
(Photo: AJ Thorley)

1st of all you have to negotiate a field with killer pigs (remember to bring packets of biscuits with you) in it to gain the 4x4 (NN263346) track on the other side of the field that rises steadily up through the forest. Turn off the 4x4 track (NN269335) and cross rough ground into Coire Daimh (NN273332).

Big B high up on the 1st pitch of Quartzvein Scoop IV, 4***, Coire Daimh. Beinn Udlaidh. 24/01/2012
(Photo: A J Thorley)

There were lots of folk walking in and the vibes were good as all the different climbing parties discussed tactics and there routes of choice for the day. Our chosen route was Quartzvein Scoop IV,4*** a classic ice route that I did a few years ago with other friends.

One for my sponsors SealSkinz. 24/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving below the crags and ice falls it was difficult at 1st to find our way to the starting point as the cloud was low down. But after a brief look at the guide book we soon identified where we were and made our way along the base of the ice falls and crags to the start. Arriving it was obvious our chosen route was popular as there was already parties waiting to get on it. So we just chilled out, munched and slowly readied ourselves whilst waiting on the route to become free.

Looking down Quartzvein Scoop IV, 4*** from just above the 2nd belay stance. Coire Daimh, Beinn Udlaidh. 24/01/2013
(Photo: A J Thorley)

Once the route became free we made our way up to the 1st belay stance, set up our belay and then we were ready to start. Now I must confess I was feeling a little nervous as I had no idea as to how my thigh would hold up to front pointing up near vertical ice. Luckily Brendan took the 1st lead and he cruised up it with seemingly no effort at all. Brendan gave me the shout and it was now my turn to climb, and surprisingly my thigh gave me no cause for concern and I soon joined Brendan at the 2nd belay stance.

Big B with the views north towards the hills of Glen Etive & The Black Mount in the background. Beinn Udlaidh 24/01/2013
(Photo: A J Thorley)

After exchanging leads at the 2nd belay stance and taking in the views from our new perch I started up the 2nd pitch of our route. It was not as enjoyable as the 1st pitch but still good fun and once I was focused it did not take me long to top the route out. There was not much to make a belay from on top so I found some good turf planted the axes firmly made myself a good bucket seat in the deep snow and took a body belay. My signal to Brendan to start climbing was a series of tugs on the rope and he soon joined me.

A panoramic view of Coire Daimh, Beinn Udlaidh. 24/01/2013 (Photo: Brendan Bailey)

We shook hands on top to thank each other for an excellent climb and enjoyed the views whilst we coiled the ropes and packed away the climbing equipment. With big smiles and lots of laughter we walked out slowly, enjoying the views and chatting to the other climbing parties as they topped out their routes. It was a fantastic day out and great way to end an enjoyable climb.    

Me just before we started the walk out, Beinn Udlaidh. 24/01/2013 (Photo: Brendan Bailey)