Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis. 3rd March 2013

Cavalry Crack Buttress with the distinctive skull shape of High Crag in the background, Polldubh Crags 03/03/2013
(Photo: Aoibhinn Bradley)

As agreed the previous day we were up early and over breakfast we discussed the options. Once we had both enjoyed a filling breakfast we jumped into the car ready to head further north again to Polldubh. We had a little doubt in our minds as to whether we could climb as in Glen Coe it was overcast and drizzling. None the less we set off full of anticipation for the days adventures.

Eve the happy belayer 1st belay stance of Pinnacle Ridge S*, Pinnacle Ridge. 03/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We arrived at the crags of Polldubh in Glen Nevis early and in high spirits, it appeared that the weather that was affecting Glen Coe was not affecting Glen Nevis. We started to gear up at the car when two other climbers arrived with a beautiful retriever I'm not sure what breed it was but it would not leave us be until we threw a stick for it to retrieve. Once geared up we started to walk the short distance to Pinnacle Ridge with our new found friend in tow still insisting that we threw the stick.

Eve cruising up the final pitch of Pinnacle Ridge S*, Pinnacle Ridge. 03/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

At the base of Pinnacle Ridge S* we flaked the ropes donned our rock shoes and tied in. I started to lead the 1st pitch and like yesterday the rock was cold on the hands and was little slippy in places. The 1st pitch went quite easily once I got used to the coldness and I soon had Eve on belay and Eve soon joined me at the 1st belay stance. We rearranged things and once I was satisfied we were all sorted I lead up the final pitch which starts with a nice rightwards traverse and then finishes up a nice slab with some delicate moves.

Eve's first onsight lead at Polldubh Crags, Upper Pinnacle D. Pinnacle Ridge. 03/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

When Eve joined me at the top of Pinnacle Ridge I insisted to Eve that she walked straight ahead to the base of Upper Pinnacle a pleasant little continuation climb from Pinnacle Ridge graded at Diff. Re-flaking the ropes and then handing Eve the bandolier of climbing protection I insisted that Eve lead on. Eve nervously took up the challenge and once past the 1st piece of gear cruised up it with little hesitation. I heard the call to climb and soon joined Eve. Congratulating Eve on her 1st onsight climb in Polldubh as we coiled the ropes we put our trainers on and moved up to The Alp.

Eve cruising up Slanting Slab VD*, Pine Wall Crag. 03/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving up in The Alp there was already other climbers on The Gutter so I suggested that I lead Slanting Slab VD* on Pine Wall Crag up to the lower off on the huge pine tree then we could abseil down again ready for Eve to lead The Gutter. Eve agreed so without hesitation I was off, but after two or three moves the drizzle started. Luckily it passed quickly and I topped out with no drama's. Eve soon joined me at my stance and I insisted that Eve lead up to the huge pine tree and the lower off. Once up to the huge pine tree to my dismay the lower off had been removed. The problem was quickly solved and with the abseil set up, down I went quickly followed by Eve.

Eve's 1st multi-pitch lead at Polldubh Crags, The Gutter D**. Pine Wall Crag 03/03/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Back down at the base of Pine Wall Crag we ate lunch and drank whilst Eve readied herself for her 1st multi-pitch lead The Gutter D***. Once sorted Eve started to lead, at 1st a little nervously but you could see that this soon passed and soon Eve had settled into a nice rhythm. In what seemed like no time at all Eve had topped out the 1st pitch and was back at the huge pine tree. Eve called down to climb and I soon joined Eve at the belay stance, the huge smile on Eve's face said it all. I quickly set up another belay and then gestured to Eve to lead on, you could see now that Eve was really enjoying the experience. Eve continued the climb and finished the climb with little effort. Once topped out Eve gave the call and I soon joined Eve at the top of Pine Wall Crag. Like before the smile on Eve's face said it all, we munched the last of our lunch before walking over to the lower off at the far end of Styx Buttress.

Eve leading up the 2nd pitch of The Gutter D***, Pine Wall Crag. 03/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We abseiled down to the base of Right Wall VD* on Styx Buttress, this was to be the last climb of the day. Once we were all sorted I lead off to enjoy a very pleasant climb and great way to end an enjoyable days climbing. I topped out, put Eve on belay and Eve soon joined me at the top of Styx Buttress where like yesterday we took in the views and reflected upon the days achievements before abseiling back down to The Alp and then making our way back to the car.

Me on Right Wall VD*, Styx Buttress. 03/03/2013 (Photo: Aoibhinn Bradley)

By the time we returned to the car it was getting chilly and it was quite a relief to jump in and get the heaters on. Returning to the Kings House Hotel to pick up the tents where we had left them in the hope they would be dry, unfortunately this plan failed and the tents were soaking, we dismantled them and packed them into the car. We then called into the Kings House for a celebration mug of tea for Eve and a pint for me before returning to Glasgow. It was a great way to end three days of adventures in the Highlands of Scotland. A huge thank you to you both Richard and Eve I really enjoyed the experience and company.   

Pine Wall Crag as we walked out. The Gutter is the series of cracks running the height of the Buttress. 03/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

  

Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis. 2nd March 2013

The morning view. Buachaille Etive Mor, Glen Coe. 02/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Having agreed the previous evening to avoid the winter climbing corries, we treated ourselves to a lie in and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. Discussing options over breakfast we decided upon an early season visit to Polldubh Crags in Glen Nevis one of many of my favourite climbing venues in Scotland. With the plan now made we finished our breakfasts and  then I went for a wander to take some pictures before jumping in the car and heading off to Glen Nevis.

The Kings House Hotel, Glen Coe. 02/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Usually when arriving at the crags of Polldubh in Glen Nevis it is quite difficult to get parked, but today the crags were quiet as we hoped they would be. We started to gear up and I suggested to Eve that we climbed two of my favourite routes, Heatwave S** and Secretaries' Direct S*** both Polldubh classics. Eve agreed and once we had geared up we began the very short walk to the base of Cavalry Crack Buttress. (See "Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis. 23rd September 2012" for grid refs and directions).

Cavalry Crack Buttress, Polldubh Crags. Look carefully and you can see two climbers on Drizzle HS*, just next to the pine tree. 02/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the start of Heatwave S** I must confess I was feeling a little nervous as this was my 1st multi-pitch lead of the new season. As we flaked the ropes and tied in my nerves soon settled. Eve had me on belay so I started to climb and once the 1st few moves were over I settled down and relaxed. The rock was cold on the hands and a little slippy in places but with a little care nothing to worry about. I settled into a nice rhythm and soon pitch after pitch went by with out incident. It felt good to be rock climbing so early in the season and to be climbing one of the most pleasant routes in Polldubh just added to the experience.

Eve just approaching the 2nd belay stance of Heatwave S**, Cavalry Crack Buttress. 02/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Topping out Heatwave S** we ate lunch whilst we coiled the ropes before scrambling up higher in amongst the crags to Secretaries' Buttress. Again we flaked the ropes and I tied in before I set off. The second pitch of Secretaries Direct S*** is wonderful with pleasant moves good rock and nice positive quartz hand holds. It is quite a bold pitch with spaced protection but that just adds to the overall excitement and enjoyment of the route. Topping out Secretaries Direct S***, we stopped to enjoy the views over Glen Nevis whilst eating the rest of our lunch and coiling the ropes before we scrambled back down to the car.

Me just starting the final pitch of Heatwave S**, Cavalry Crack Buttress. 02/03/2013 (Photo: Aoibhinn Bradley)

Packing the climbing gear in the car we stopped to look at the vast expanse of Polldubh crags and Eve suggested that we return again the following day. I agreed and we continued to pack the car quite contented with the days achievements. Once packed we called into Fort William to pick up some extra vegetables to go with supper before returning to the Kings House Hotel.

Me high up on the 2nd pitch of Secretaries' Direct S***, Secretaries' Buttress. 02/03/2013 (Photo: Aoibhinn Bradley)

Back at the Kings House Hotel we called in for a pint and to change into clean clothes. Whilst quaffing our drinks Eve suggested that she would like to have a go leading the following day. I agreed this was good idea and suggested The Gutter D*** the classic beginners multi-pitch climb of Polldubh. Eve reluctantly agreed and with the plan made it was time to return to the tents, make supper and turn in early for an early start the following day.

Eve cruising up the final slabs of Secretaries' Direct S***, Secretaries' Buttress. 02/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

NC Gully II**, North Buttress. Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glen Coe. 1st March 2013

Early morning view of Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glen Coe. 01/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

As the fantastic weather over the Highlands of Scotland continues it was good news to receive a call from Richard a friend of mine wanting to get out and enjoy an easy winter climb. I also received another call from Eve another friend of mine and staff member at the Glasgow Climbing Centre wanting to get out and lead her 1st winter route. We had a loose plan and agreed to meet the following day at the car park for Stob Coire nam Beith.

Eve geared up and ready to take on NC Gully II**, Stob Coire Nan Lochan. 01/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the car park we could see Richard's car as we arrived, we parked beside Richard's car and jumped out full of excitement as we all greeted each other. Looking up into the corrie behind the car park the gully lines looked a little thin, so we jumped back into the cars and drove the short distance back along the road to the helipad car park. Arriving it was busy with other walkers, climbers and instructional groups getting ready to head up into Coire Nan Lochan.

Eve at the 2nd belay stance of NC Gully II**, Stob Coire Nan Lochan. 01/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Looking through the guide book Eve decided that NC Gully II** was going to be the target for the day, Richard agreed. So with the plan now made we took our time and packed the rucksacks with our equipment for the day and started the walk in to Coire Nan Lochan at a nice steady pace. It was a pleasant walk in and we got to enjoy spectacular views and shared all of our latest gossip as we plodded away enjoying the scenery. (See "Bidean Nam Bian 15th September 2012" post for grid references and directions).

Richard & Me as we approached the 2nd belay stance of NC Gully II**, Stob Coire Nan Lochan. 01/03/2013 (Photo: Aoibhinn Bradley)

Once we arrived in the coire the cliffs looked magnificent with the sun shining high over head. We found a nice boulder in the sun shine where we could gear up and enjoy the views as we ate our lunches and readied ourselves for a fantastic adventure. It took a while for us to get ready but we were in no rush as the weather was spectacular and the views were inspiring. Once ready we started to ascend the steep approach slope to the 1st belay stance that Eve had prepared.

Richard & Me as we left the 2nd belay stance of NC Gully II**, Stob Coire Nan Lochan. 01/03/2013 (Photo: Aoibhinn Bradley)

Double checking that all was well I put Eve on belay and Eve then started to lead, nervously at 1st but it did not take long for Eve to settle into a nice rhythm. Once relaxed and happily making her way up the gully me and Richard chatted, whilst enjoying the scenery. It did not take long for Eve to dispatch the 1st pitch and soon Eve had me and Richard on belay and we soon joined a very happy Eve at the 2nd belay stance.

The spectacular view that greeted Eve as Eve topped out NC Gully II**, Stob Coire Nan Lochan. 01/03/2013 (Photo: Aoibhinn Bradley)

After a little rearrangement of the belay we soon had things sorted and Eve was back on belay ready to lead up the 2nd pitch of the gully. With increasing confidence Eve settled down straight away into a nice rhythm again and soon Eve was high above me and Richard. It was great to watch Eve leading with such confidence and all me and Richard had to do was relax and enjoy the scenery. The call from above soon came and we both made our way to the final belay stance and joined Eve.

Richard & Eve celebrating their success at the summit of Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glen Coe. 01/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Again we had to make a few adjustments and Eve was back on belay to tackle the final pitch. With ever increasing confidence Eve set a good pace and soon disappeared out of sight high up in the gully. Again me Richard chatted making plans for the summer rock climbing season when all of a sudden we heard a loud whoop of joy as Eve topped out the gully. Eve soon had me and Richard on belay and as we topped out to the spectacular views Eve greeted us both with a huge smile.

The Bidean Nam Bian massif, Bidean Nam Bian left and Stob Coire Nam Beith left from Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glen Coe. 01/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Congratulating Eve we all shuck hands surrounded by spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. We started to pack the climbing equipment away and as we did this we decided to ascend the short distance to the summit of Stob Coire nan Lochan. It was a fantastic way to end the adventure, the views were spectacular. It would have fantastic to have stayed up there until the sun set but even in the glorious sun shine it was too cold and we had to descend.

Ben Nevis & Carn Mor Dearg from Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glen Coe 01/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The descent just like the ascent was fantastic we had all achieved our goals, we had all enjoyed the experience and most importantly we did it safely. Returning to the bags in the coire we ate and drank a little before descending back to the cars. It was a fantastic walk out with stunning views of the Aonach Eagach and all three of us were relaxed, smiling and reflecting upon a fantastic adventure that we had all just enjoyed.

Looking down NC Gully II**, Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glen Coe 01/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Back at the cars, again we all shuck hands, laughing and joking about our days adventure. We then sorted the climbing gear before we went our separate ways. It was late and it seemed a shame that Richard could not join me and Eve for a drink at the Kings House Hotel to celebrate the days success.

The setting sun as we all descended from Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glen Coe. 01/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

By the time me and Eve packed the car it was just starting to get dark so we drove the short distance to the Kings House Hotel where we parked at the rear and quickly pitched the tents before darkness fell. We then called into the bar where we toasted Eve's success and plotted the following days adventure before returning to the tents for supper and an early night.

Eve & Richard as we descended Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glen Coe. 01/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)