Direct Start Hidden Chimney IV,5**, Mess of Pottage. Coire An T-Sneachda, Cairngorms. 26th November 2012

The alarm went off! I was up and out of bed without delay! Quickly dressed and put the kettle on whilst Vicks readied herself. It was 5.00am and today we were off to the Northern Corries for hopefully our second winter climb of the season. Once we finished our brews we shouldered our packs and loaded the car up, for once we were running a head of schedule. Double checking that we had left nothing behind we jumped in ready for the off! Disaster! The battery was dead! Plan B, we managed to push the car off the drive onto the road which luckily runs down hill. With a lot of effort we managed to get enough momentum to jump start the car, relieved we were off!

Base Station, Cairngorm Mountain. 26/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It's a long drive from Glasgow to Aviemore so to the pass the time we munched our pre-made breakfast of high energy cereal bars, buttered malt-loaf served with lashing of coffee. We also discussed our route for the day and decided given the forecast that we would climb on Mess of Pottage as it was the closest crag to the ski centre car park, which happens to be very handy when visiting the Northern Corries.

Mess of Pottage? 26/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the Base Station (NH990060) also known as the Coire Cas car park it was obvious that we were going to be treated to a day of proper Scottish gnarl. Jumping out the car we quickly changed into our winter over trousers, put our winter boots on, donned our winter jackets and shouldered our packs. Before leaving we popped into the Base Station at the Cairngorm Mountain Resort to check the weather forecast and use the facilities before heading off into the mist.

Me high up on the Direct Start IV,5** to Hidden Chimney II/III**, Northern Corries 26/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The walk into Mess of Pottage is normally quite straight forward but with visibility down to 10m with fresh snow covering all the foot paths today was going to prove to be hard work. We walked along the normal path from the car park in a south westerly direction until it forks (NH987057), turning left we continued in southerly direction until again the path forks (NH987047). Changing direction to south east we continued until we were standing in the main coire floor just below Mess of Pottage (NH995033). We could not see a thing and continued in the same direction until we started to ascend steeply, at this point we found other tracks from other parties that must have been experiencing the same difficulties as us. Eventually we started to box our way up the hillside until we arrived at the unmistakable gully that is Jacob's Ladder.

Me at the belay stance just below Hidden Chimney II/III**, Northern Corries 26/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Taking our packs off we consulted the guide book to make sure we had the correct starting point for our 1st winter climb this season on Mess of Pottage (NH997032). Once satisfied we started to gear up whilst munching on our lunch. We 1st ascended Jacob's Ladder that now has good ice forming to a good belay below the chimneys that lead up on to the Slant. Making sure our belay was good, I started the 1st pitch of our climb. It did not look steep but looks can be deceptive, especially in low visibility. It turned out to be a short pitch but good for the grade and I enjoyed it, I found a good belay then brought Vicks up onto the Slant. The Slant is a rising traverse of the crag and can be used as an escape, or for mixing different routes to give good combinations of all grades. Making short work of this pitch we took a good belay just below Hidden Chimney.

Me just starting Hidden Chimney II/III**, Northern Corries 26/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Consulting the guide book again the line described moves right then back left to the jammed blocks which are the crux of the route. Looking up I decided to keep left into the steep wall which offers lots of good protection but the climbing is more difficult than moving right and up. It took a lot of effort but soon I was under the crux of the climb and making my ascent of the jammed block. After some time and many different attempts I managed to over come the obstacle and found myself standing on the block with my progress halted. Another jammed block presented itself and this time even with my height I could not reach high enough to overcome it. Rearranging my protection I then opted for the steep head wall to my right which I managed to torque my way up and overcome before topping out.

Me having just topped out on Hidden Chimney II/III**, Northern Corries 26/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Exposed to the full force of the weather I wasted no time in locating a belay and bringing Vicks up. The winds blowing across the plateau were vicious and I was freezing up quickly. It seemed to take an age for Vicks to top out and maintaining concentration was difficult in such extreme weather. When Vicks joined me on the summit we quickly celebrated our achievement, then wasted no time in packing the climbing equipment back into the packs and starting our descent in a northerly direction back to the Coire Cas carpark by following the Fiacaill a' Choire Chais ridge to the lines of ski tows and so down to safety.

Conditions on the Mess of Pottage were a little chilly! Me taking a baring. 26/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It was an epic day and I am looking forward to returning soon. The memories will live on for a long time.

An Socach, Glas Tulaichean, Carn an Righ, Beinn Lutharn Mhor & Carn Bhac. 17th - 18th November 2012

Early morning in Glen Ey. 17/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

With the weather in Scotland continuing to be as unpredictable as ever we decided to make the most of a calm weather gap and travelled out to the Southern Cairngorms for a mini expedition of epic proportions. This would also prove to be a good test for the socks that my sponsors Sealskinz have given me to test. As usual it was the early morning start and we wasted no time in packing the car and setting off to a small village called Meikle Inverey (NO089892) not far from Braemar (NO152914) in the Southern Cairngorms.

Creag an Fhuathais just as the sun burst through the clouds. 17/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It was a brisk morning when we arrived in the small village of Meikle Inverey and we wasted no time in getting ready to start our adventure. Shouldering our packs we started our walk into An Socach through Glen Ey, a glen steeped in History. Walking through the glen we passed the "Colonel's Bed " (NO087871). "The Black Colonel" John Farquharson was a violent man in a violent age. Outlawed in 1666 for the murder of a Ballater laird he became a hunted man. In 1689 he burned the 67-year-old Braemar Castle to prevent it falling into government hands. Cornered by redcoats in the Pass of Ballater he ensured his own immortality by escaping on horseback. Eventually a redcoat ambush was laid for him at Inverey, but forewarned he escaped and watched his castle burn. He thereafter took refuge in the "Colonel's Bed" below a rock overhang in a gorge in the River Ey, where his beloved Annie Ban brought him food. He died around 1698 and instructed that he was to be buried in Iverey, but for some reason was buried in Braemar. More information about the colourful history of this area can be found at www.braemarscotland.co.uk.

Vicks at the summit of An Socach. 17/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Continuing our walk through the glen we eventually crossed a bridge (NO101849) and rested a little while before ascending the north ridge of Creag an Fhuathais to an unnamed top (NO100831). This is the 1st top of a 5km broad sweeping ridge that eventually leads to An Socach. Arriving on the summit of the 1st top we were treated to sunshine and clear views but there was a chilling strong wind blowing. As we continued along the ridge in a south westerly direction then turning west the weather started to change and the cloud came down. As we started to approach An Socach the wind increased, the cloud became thicker and there was the odd snow and hail shower. Arriving at the summit of An Socath (NO079799) we quickly took our summit photographs and descended quickly in a southerly direction to an area of flat ground (NO081794), where we rested for a while.

The Mountain Hardware Hotel at Loch nan Eun with Beinn lutharn Bheag & An Socach in the background. 17/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Having enjoyed a good break we continued our walk crossing over the area of flat boggy ground to a broad ridge to an unnamed top (NO078782). Once on the ridge we watched a huge heard of deer going about their every day business totally unaware of our presence for some time before eventually we were spotted and they all ran away disappearing from our sight. We then followed the ridge to Cairn a' Chlarsaich (NO069779) before descending in a westerly direction towards the waterfalls (NO064778) that start at Lochan nan Uan (NO064781). The ground was still sodden from all the rain and melt water from the snow over the previous days, but we did manage to find an area that was reasonable and just big enough to pitch The Mountain Hardware Hotel. By the time we pitched the tent we had just enough time to make a hot brew before we went out on night navigation.

Night navigation practice, me at the summit of Glas Tulaichean. 17/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

As we left the comfort of the tent it was still daylight but fading fast. We started by ascending a minor top (NO061775) and descended to a bealach (NO057773) where we found an old line of fence posts that lead uphill. Double checking our direction of travel we then followed the fence posts up hill to a false summit (NO054764). Day light had now given way to darkness and it was now snowing heavily. Double checking our position we continued on to the summit of Glas Tulaichean (NO051760) where we took our summit photographs in worsening weather. Crouching down beside one another with the wind on our backs we made our plan of attack to go our next target Carn an Righ.

The Mountain Hardware Hotel when returning from night navigation. 17/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

From the summit of Glas Tulaichean we continued to follow the fence posts in a westerly direction until we found a track that descends the west ridge to Faire Ghlinne Mhoir (NO035755). At this point we changed direction and descended steep slopes in a northerly direction to Allt a'Ghlinne Mhoir then ascended steep slopes to gain the south ridge of Carn an Righ eventually arriving at another false top (NO033767). We continued in a northerly direction and then turned north west to the true summit of Carn an Righ (NO029772). With the weather still not giving respite we descended almost immediately in a easterly direction to a bealach (NO038772) where we hoped we would be able to follow a path back to Lochan nan Euan. Unfortunately we could not find the path due to the darkness and white out conditions. So we then continued over peat hags and very boggy ground in a north easterly direction back to the comfort of the tent.

A very frosty early morning. The Mountain Hardware Hotel just as the sun starts to rise. 18/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving back in the area where the tent was pitched we had difficulty in locating it due to a covering of snow, but the reflective tags worked well and we found it. Brushing the snow off ourselves we soon settled within the comfort of The Mountain Hardware Hotel and set to the task of cooking supper, which we enjoyed with a beer each before settling down in the warmth of our sleeping bags for the night.

Sunrise looking south east across Lochan nan Eun. 18/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The following morning we awoke early around 5.30am and slowly but surely we dragged ourselves from the warmth of our sleeping bags and started to get dressed whilst the kettle was boiling. Soon we warmed up and made our plans for the day whilst enjoying a hot brew. Once we had finished breakfast we packed what we could into our packs before leaving the tent to see what awaited us. When we emerged from the tent more snow had fallen over night and there had also been a heavy frost which despite our best efforts to prevent it, our boots had frozen solid making walking a round quite difficult. It did not take us long to dismantle the tent and after a quick double check to make sure we had left nothing behind we were on our way.

Sunrise from the bealach in between Mam nan Carn & Beinn lutharn Bheag. 18/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Still walking like robots due to our frozen boots we stumbled around the loch and ascended to the bealach (NO061786) in between Beinn lutharn Bheag and Mam nan Carn. We then ascended to Beinn lutharn Bheag (NO065791) before descending back to the bealach and reascending to Mam nan Carn (NO049779). It was cold with a fierce biting wind blowing in our faces. The sun was only just starting to rise as we approached Mam nan Carn and every now and then bursts of warming sunshine would break through the cloud. It was spectacular to watch the sun rise and we kept stopping to watch its progress as it climbed higher. By the time we reached the summit of Mam nan Carn the sun had risen but the cloud had descended and it started to snow again.

Vicks approaching the summit of Mam nan Carn. 18/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We descended quickly from Mam nan Carn in a north westerly direction to a broad bealach (NO047784) where we rested for a little while under the supervision of the mountain hares that are now sporting their white winter coats. From here we continued in the same direction to Beinn Lutharn Mhor (NO046792). Again we were exposed to the full force of the weather and quickly made our way along the broad sweeping ridge in a north easterly direction to a top marked by a small cairn (NO052799) at the most easterly point of the ridge. Again we wasted no time in descending to a bealach (NO047806), which was tough going down steep scree slopes that were frozen solid and covered in snow.

Me at the summit of Bein lutharn Mhor. 18/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Resting again under the supervision of the mountain hares we discussed our route so far, confirmed where we were and continued to a top (NO042809), then onto another bealach (NO043815) before we ascended to Carn a' Bhutha (NO034820). As we turned into the direction of  another top (NO042827) in a north easterly direction, the weather did start to improve and we could see where we had come from. The brief views were spectacular. We continued along this broad ridge to the summit of Carn Bhac (NO051832) where we sheltered at the summit cairn and rested for a little while. It would of been nice to able to have wandered around the summit and enjoy the views but the wind was still fierce and biting cold.

Vicks at the summit of Carn Bhac. 18/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Descending from Carn Bhac we noticed another walker descending Carn Creagach to the bealach that we were aiming for. The other walker arrived at the bealach (NO061828) just before us. We stopped and chatted for a little while before continuing to Carn Creagach (NO069830). Finally the weather broke and we could enjoy the views in all directions. We were starting to feel the strain of the weekend's adventure and decided to continue onto Creag an Lochain (NO082839) so that we could descend easy angled slopes to a bridge (NO088862) in the track that we had used to walk in on the previous day.

The evening view from Creag an Lochain, our last top of this epic outing. 18/11/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Reaching the track we slumped our packs on the floor and drank lots of water whilst we munched on the last of our food. Once re-energised we shouldered our packs again and wearily we walked out back to the car happily chatting away reflecting upon what we had achieved. The biggest smiles arrived when we realised that our boots had finally thawed out and we could now walk normally. It was a relief to get back to the car and change into clean cloths and take our heavy mountain boots off. With smiles on our faces we drove back to Glasgow having enjoyed a wonderful experience in the Highlands of Scotland.