The Cheviot, Northumberland. 14th April 2013

The walk into The Cheviot. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We woke to a blustery day and over breakfast discussed the options for the day's adventures. We decided against climbing or bouldering and settled for a days walking. The hill of choice being The Cheviot, Northumberlands highest hill.

An adder we stumbled across on the track as we walked in. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The day started with a quick visit to Wooler to pick up a map and then we drove the very short distance into Harthope Vally where we parked the car by Harthope Burn (NT955226). It was busy as there was a fell running event on. We quickly changed, packed the rucksack and started our days wanderings.

A female and male frog on the track as we walked in. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The foot path is well way marked and runs along the northern side of Harthope Burn in a south westerly direction to Scotsmans Knowe (NT905190). The walking is straight forward and the ascent is gentle but today the water levels in the burn were high with the heavy rain and snow melt. Large sections of the path were under water causing us to make some quite long detours.

The way markers. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

 

From Scotsmans Knowe the foot path changes to a north westerly direction and steepens a little as you approach Cairn Hill (NT903195). This hill is also the junction to where the Pennine Way detours to the summit of The Cheviot. Again the foot path changes direction this time to north easterly as it ascends gently towards the summit of The Cheviot.

The summit trig point of The Cheviot. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the summit of the The Cheviot the way was blocked by all the melting snow and we thought that we might not make it to the actual summit trig point. But some clever route finding and a long detour we finally managed to attain the summit trig point of The Cheviot (NT909205).

Hedgehope Hill from The Cheviot. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Our descent route was simply to follow the path in north easterly direction to Scald Hill (NT928218). The walking is gentle and the views easy on the eye. Once we were at the summit of Scald Hill we continued for a short distance to a fork in the path (NT933222). Here the path changes direction to easterly and gentle descends through grouse butts back to the road that we used to walk in on.

Housey Crags & Langlee Crags from The Cheviot. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Although when we started this walk the weather was grim and we considered returning to the car early, I'm glad that we stuck with it and finished it. The Cheviot may not be as grand as the mountains of Scotland but it does offer commanding views across the beautiful landscape of Northumberland. 

Housey Crags. 14/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Kyloe Crag & Kyloe in the Woods, Northumberland. 13th April 2013

Me high on the crux of Christmas Tree Arete Direct VS 4c, Kyloe Crag. 13/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The weather forecast for Scotland was not looking good, with heavy rain and a sudden thaw predicted for the weekend. We decided to head south to the beautiful county of Northumberland for some early season rock climbing with friends.

Richard & Pascaline on Eeny VD, Kyloe Crag. 13/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Myself and Vicks travelled down the previous evening and we met Richard and Pascaline at Kyloe Crag just as they were getting ready to gear up. It was a beautiful morning and we all chatted whilst we sorted ourselves out for the days climbing. I suggested that we move from we were to further along the crag before it got busy with other climbers. Everybody agreed to the plan and we made our way along the crag to the main climbing area and started our days climbing.

Richard the happy belayer, Kyloe Crag. 13/04/2013 (Photo: Pascaline Boulanger)

This was Richards and Pascaline's 1st visit to the crags of  Northumberland and even though  the sun was shining the rock was cold on the hands causing them to numb if you stayed in the same position for too long. But despite this we managed to climb just about every route in between severe and very severe without incident.

Me on Mo S, Kyloe Crag. 13/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

As predicted we were also joined by other climbers and soon there was a climber on just about every available line.The vibes were good with friendly banter being exchanged with all the climbers whilst waiting to get on climbs.

Richard & Pascaline, Kyloe Crag. 13/04/2013 (Photo: Pascaline Boulanger)

It turned out to be a fantastic day with fantastic weather. All of us achieved our goals for the day making the short journey to Belford for a quick pint at the Bluebell Hotel all the more satisfying. A great way to celebrate a good day and Richards and Pascaline's 1st visit to Northumberland.  

Me on Z Climb VS 4c, Kyloe in the Woods. 13/04/2013 (Photo: Pascaline Boulanger)

Number Three Gully Buttress Direct Finish IV,5*, Number Three Gully Buttress. Ben Nevis. 6th April 2013

Early morning view from the Glen Nevis campsite. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The thought of climbing on Ben Nevis in April had never really crossed my mind before, but this has been an exceptional winter for Scotland and the opportunity to get another winter ascent in was not to be missed. Big B met me at North Face car park, I already had the bacon butties on the go and over bacon butties and coffee we formed the plan for the day.

Ready for the off, Me & Big B at the North Face car park. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we had eaten our fill and sorted the gear we started the long approach to the North Face of Ben Nevis. We followed the same route I used last month when I did the Carn Mor Dearg Arete but this time instead of turning off the path we continued to the CIC Hut (NN167722), here we rested and geared up. It was a beautiful morning and climbers were out in force making the most of these wonderful conditions. We chatted for some time with the guides that had being staying in the hut before continuing on our way up into Coire Na Ciste (NN163717).

Approaching the North Face of Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving in the coire below the steep approach slopes we donned the metal ware, checked the guide book and after a short discussion we started to ascend the steep snow slopes to the 1st belay stance. 1st thing we did was to carve a huge ledge into the concrete like snow so we could stand with ease, we then used ice screws to make our belay and once all was sorted Big B set to the task of the 1st pitch.

North-East Buttress & The Douglas Boulder & Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013. (Photo: A J Thorley)

It did not take long for Big B to dispatch the 1st pitch but for some reason it seemed to take an age for him to make a belay stance and give me the shout to climb. The call eventually came and I soon joined Big B at his self confessed dodgy belay. I took the next pitch which for some reason made me very nervous, it was not hard or technical. I calmed myself, continued to climb and eventually found a bomb proof belay and then brought Big B up.

Good ice on the Lower Cascades, Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

From my stance Big B led the next pitch which we thought was going to be the crux and the exposed section of the climb. As it turned out this was not the case and Big B had surmounted what we thought was the crux and then continued to a good belay and then called for me to join him. At Big B's stance we started to get a little confused as the length of the route was not adding up to the amount of climbing that we had already done. None the less I led on and after maybe 30 meters soon came to an abrupt halt. I had discovered the crux of the climb and after a lot of faffing decided to take a belay and bring Big B up for his verdict.

The Comb-Number Three Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis. 06/04/20113 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Big B came up to my stance and soon came to the same conclusion as me. It was not worth the risk and an alternative option would have to be found. Big B led on nervously at 1st and after some humming and hawing soon found a way that would give us access to the summit. He settled into a good pace and soon had me on belay and brought me up to the summit plateau. Shaking hands we celebrated our success, rested for a little while and then packed the equipment away before starting our descent.

Looking down Number Three Gully Buttress III*** to Big B and his shoddy belay! Ben Nevis 06/04/2013
(Photo: A J Thorley)

From our position on the summit plateau (NN161714) we descended towards the top of Red Burn Gully (NN155721). Once we reached the gully we enjoyed a very bumpy bum slide down the steep slope virtually all the way to the tourist track where we then continued to walk out on the route described when I did the Carn Mor Dearg Arete.It was certainly a cracking day out on Ben Nevis and one that will live with me for many years to come.

Big B after completing what we thought was the crux of Number Three Gully Buttress III***, Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we finally returned to the car we drove the short Distance to Glen Nevis where we met friends for celebration drinks and a well earned bar meal. A great way to end an amazing adventure on the UK's highest mountain.

Big B after topping out Number Three Gully Buttress III***, Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013

No.6 Gully***, F Buttress. West Face, Aonach Dubh. 24th March 2013

West Face, Aonach Dubh. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Winter has certainly returned to Scotland and most of the United Kingdom. I must admit I was apprehensive when I received a call from Big B asking to climb. The weather forecast was not the most attractive I have ever seen, with snow flurries and wind speeds up to 60-80 mph, temperatures in between -26 to -30 and a high risk of avalanche this was going to be a day of Scottish gnarl at its finest!

Spring Lambs?  24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It was an unusually late start and Big B picked me up just after 8am. The roads were quiet as we made our way speedily up to Glen Coe. Arriving at the car park I was convinced opening the car door was not a good idea, as the wind was blowing so fierce it was rocking the car. Eventually we convinced each other that it was a good idea and we then set to the task of checking and sorting the climbing gear before packing the packs and making our way steeply up hill to the start of the days climb. (For grid refs and directions check Crypt Route IV,6***, Church Door Buttress. Coire Nam Beith, Bidean Nam Bian- West Top).

The frozen falls of Allt Coire nam Beitheach as we walked in. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The walk in is straight forward and to our surprise we spotted two spring lambs calling desperately for their mother. I hope the poor little chaps survive long enough to actually see spring! As we continued to walk in we noticed all the other climbers eager to get to the start of No.6 Gully. We just steadied away and discussed all the other options open to us just in case we ended up standing in line waiting to get onto the climb.

No. 6 Gully***, F Buttress. West Face, Aonach Dubh 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

As it turned out Big B's plan of a late start, turned out to be the right choice. As we approached the start of the 1st pitch all the other climbers were well ahead of us. We geared up in high spirits and chatted to two other climbers that only intended on doing the 1st pitch. They were also kind enough to let myself and Big B onto the route 1st, so we soloed the 1st pitch so the two other climbers did not have to wait on us in what can only be described as " not the best of days to be on the hill ".

Big B ascending the 3rd pitch in good Scottish conditions, No. 6 Gully***. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

I took the lead from the top of the 1st pitch on not the best of ice but none the less it was a good pitch and both myself and Big B enjoyed it. Big B took the next pitch which was almost like a chimney made from ice, this pitch was also very enjoyable. Swapping leads again, I lead the easy snow pitch to a cave under huge icicles just below the crux ice pitch. Here sheltered from the elements we ate and drank before Big B lead off.

The huge icicles at the 3rd belay stance, No. 6 Gully *** 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The crux pitch was excellent! Big B seemed to dispatch it with little effort. It was steep but the ice was excellent. We had a little bit of an advantage because the route was stepped out a little but not enough to take away the true character of the route. The pioneers that put up this route by cutting steps and hand holds into the ice must have their work cut out for them. Once I joined Big B at his stance I lead through on very thin ice, turf and rock to top out the route.

Big B taking in the views after topping out, No. 6 Gully***. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Big B soon joined me at the top of the route we shook hands just as the sun appeared for the 1st time this day and then looked around to form a plan to get us down to safety. There was an awful lot of snow drifts to negotiate but with careful route planning this was not an issue, we soon found a sound block to abseil from down to the safety of the coire floor. We packed away the climbing equipment and made with haste to the car and then onto to the Clachaig Inn for a celebration pint in front of roaring log burner! A fantastic way to end a fantastic day out, cheers Big B!

Me after topping out No. 6 Gully ***. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Ben Nevis Via The Carn Mor Dearg Arete. 13th March 2013

Early morning view over Fort William, Caol & Corpach. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The bright early morning sun woke me, and at 1st I must admit after yesterdays exploits I could have quite happily turned over and gone back to bed. I was shattered and aching all over. But eventually the warming of the tent forced me to get up out of my sleeping bag. Fumbling around I dressed myself then unzipped the tent inner so that I could put the kettle on and make the hot brews.

The early morning view of Carn Mor Dearg & Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

With hot brews to hand I started to make sausage butties for breakfast. We were both hungry and needed a good breakfast before even contemplating what today's adventure was going to be. We discussed many options including another a winter climb, maybe some cragging then it hit me. With such a good forecast I suggested that we do Ben Nevis via The Carn Mor Dearg Arete. This did not go down too well at 1st but Vicks soon came round to the idea.

Three young stags with the North Face of Ben Nevis in the background. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we had both finished breakfast and eaten the remainder of the hot cross buns as well for good measure I made us another hot brew before we then dismantled the tent and packed it away into the car. Double checking that we had left nothing behind we jumped into the car and traveled the short distance up the road to Torlundy (NN143771) where we turned off to park at The North Face car park (NN145764).

The North Face of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

To my surprise there were very few cars parked, it is normally heaving when conditions and the weather are forecast to be good. We readied ourselves when another car pulled in, it was the conservation team that are carrying out repairs on the foot path used to gain the North Face of Ben Nevis. After chatting with them for a little while we moved on and wished them luck with their project.

North-East Buttress, Observatory Ridge & Tower Ridge, North Face of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The foot path is well sign posted, at 1st it rises steeply in a south easterly direction before swinging around into a south westerly direction where it levels for a short distance and then again rises steeply in a south easterly direction to the upper car park and to the stile where the open hill side can be gained (NN148750). Here we rested for a little while before continuing, it was glorious day so we were in no rush. The sun beating down made it feel almost summer like.

Almost stood on this chap, a Ptarmigan hiding in the rocks. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we had rested we continued in a south easterly direction until a faint foot path forks off to the left of the main foot path (NN152744) it is not marked on the map or at least not my edition of the map. Here we stopped again and changed into our winter boots before continuing up the open hillside in an almost easterly direction.

The Carn Mor Dearg Arete leading up to Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It is hard going so we set a nice steady pace and taking our time made good progress. We stopped numerous times to take in the views and to refill the water bottles before we gained too much height and all water would be frozen. At one point I was quietly walking along in my own little world when I almost stood on a ptarmigan and startled myself, the little chap must have thought he was invisible.

The Carn Mor Dearg Arete 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Eventually we gained the saddle (NN172732) in between Carn Beag Dearg (NN171736) and Carn Dearg Meadhonach (NN176727). Here we rested again and now we could take in the views in all directions. The North Face of Ben Nevis looked inspiring still with its thick winter coat. It was cold even though the sun was shining so we donned the wind proofs and crampons before continuing.

The Carn Mor Dearg Arete as it sweeps up to the summit of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Even though we had only be standing a short time we had both chilled to the bone and it took a little while to get going again. The short walk from where we were to the summit of Carn Mor Dearg (NN178722) seemed to take an age as well as sapping all of our energy. It was a relief to finally arrive at the summit and see the splendor of the Carn Mor Dearg Arete sweeping around to Ben Nevis. It looked magical especially when the sun lit it up.

Looking along The Carn Mor Dearg Arete to Carn Mor Dearg 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

At 1st the arete drops in a southerly direction before sweeping around to the west, eventually sweeping around to the north as it joins with the shoulder of Ben Nevis. I could see before we dropped down onto the arete that it was banked out with very little rock exposed, I also noticed the wind slab that had built up on the leeward side of the arete (east & northern side). Care would have to taken as there was enough wind slab sitting on concrete like neve to cause a fall if care was not taken.

Beinn A' Bheithir from the summit of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We set off around the arete kicking into the wind slab until we were standing on the harder snow below, progress was slow but it was better to be safe than sorry. Besides the views of the surrounding mountains were stunning and we were in no rush. It felt great to be standing on this knife edge surrounded by such spectacular scenery. It reminded of the all the books that I have read and the photographs that inspired me to take to the mountains in the 1st place.

A raven on the summit of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Eventually we made it around the arete to the cairn (NN169711) that marks a safe descent in to the corrie below when the weather is fowl. There used to be a line of abseil posts but they have now been removed. Here we rested before taking on the final ascent to the summit of Ben Nevis itself.

The emergency shelter on Ben Nevis summit plastered in snow & ice. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once rested and refueled we started the final ascent up to the summit of Ben Nevis and like the ascent to Carn Mor Dearg it seemed to sap every ounce of energy. Progress seemed torturous at times and it was hard to maintain a steady pace. The slope we were ascending just seemed to get steeper and steeper with out respite. Until eventually it eased and the vast expanse of the summit plateau was laid out before us.

Looking across the cliffs of the North Face of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

My excitement was hard to contain, it is not often you can stand on the summit of Ben Nevis with clear views in all directions. I approached the summit trig point of Ben Nevis (NN167713) where I was greeted by a raven hopping around the summit trig point. I could not believe it, not only was a standing on the summit of Ben Nevis with clear views in all directions but there was also not another sole in sight. A truly magical and rare moment!

Looking west across the summit plateau of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We rested and strolled around the summit taking in the views whilst munching the last of our lunch. We were being followed closely by a pair of snow buntings they must have been hoping that we dropped a sandwich for them to nibble on. Once we finished our lunches we circled again taking photographs before taking our summit photographs and beginning the descent.

Snow Buntings on the summit of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

At 1st we followed the cairns that mark the tourist path until we turned off to the summit of Carn Dearg (NN159719). From this summit a simple snow gully leads down in a north westerly direction directly to the tourist foot path (NN147724). It was a fantastic descent with great views out to the west, we could even see Skye outlined in the distance.

Me standing on the summit trig point of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once back to the safety of the tourist foot path we removed the wind proofs and crampons then packed them away back into our ruck sacks. We were again now below the freezing line so we wasted no time in finding running water so we could re-hydrate and replenish the water bottles before moving on.

Looking across the Mamores towards Glen Coe. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We followed the tourist path to the northern end of the lochan (NN146732) where another unmarked footpath descends over open hillside in a northerly direction back to the upper car park. It was easy going and we soon reached the area where you can ford the river and regain the path back to the North Face car park. Changing back into our trainers we strolled slowly back to the car as the sun set over Fort William, Caol and Corpach.

Looking west over Loch Eil. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It was magical way to end an amazing day out in the Highlands of Scotland. A day that will certainly live with me for many years to come!

Meall an t-Suidhe. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)