Number Three Gully Buttress Direct Finish IV,5*, Number Three Gully Buttress. Ben Nevis. 6th April 2013

Early morning view from the Glen Nevis campsite. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The thought of climbing on Ben Nevis in April had never really crossed my mind before, but this has been an exceptional winter for Scotland and the opportunity to get another winter ascent in was not to be missed. Big B met me at North Face car park, I already had the bacon butties on the go and over bacon butties and coffee we formed the plan for the day.

Ready for the off, Me & Big B at the North Face car park. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we had eaten our fill and sorted the gear we started the long approach to the North Face of Ben Nevis. We followed the same route I used last month when I did the Carn Mor Dearg Arete but this time instead of turning off the path we continued to the CIC Hut (NN167722), here we rested and geared up. It was a beautiful morning and climbers were out in force making the most of these wonderful conditions. We chatted for some time with the guides that had being staying in the hut before continuing on our way up into Coire Na Ciste (NN163717).

Approaching the North Face of Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving in the coire below the steep approach slopes we donned the metal ware, checked the guide book and after a short discussion we started to ascend the steep snow slopes to the 1st belay stance. 1st thing we did was to carve a huge ledge into the concrete like snow so we could stand with ease, we then used ice screws to make our belay and once all was sorted Big B set to the task of the 1st pitch.

North-East Buttress & The Douglas Boulder & Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013. (Photo: A J Thorley)

It did not take long for Big B to dispatch the 1st pitch but for some reason it seemed to take an age for him to make a belay stance and give me the shout to climb. The call eventually came and I soon joined Big B at his self confessed dodgy belay. I took the next pitch which for some reason made me very nervous, it was not hard or technical. I calmed myself, continued to climb and eventually found a bomb proof belay and then brought Big B up.

Good ice on the Lower Cascades, Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

From my stance Big B led the next pitch which we thought was going to be the crux and the exposed section of the climb. As it turned out this was not the case and Big B had surmounted what we thought was the crux and then continued to a good belay and then called for me to join him. At Big B's stance we started to get a little confused as the length of the route was not adding up to the amount of climbing that we had already done. None the less I led on and after maybe 30 meters soon came to an abrupt halt. I had discovered the crux of the climb and after a lot of faffing decided to take a belay and bring Big B up for his verdict.

The Comb-Number Three Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis. 06/04/20113 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Big B came up to my stance and soon came to the same conclusion as me. It was not worth the risk and an alternative option would have to be found. Big B led on nervously at 1st and after some humming and hawing soon found a way that would give us access to the summit. He settled into a good pace and soon had me on belay and brought me up to the summit plateau. Shaking hands we celebrated our success, rested for a little while and then packed the equipment away before starting our descent.

Looking down Number Three Gully Buttress III*** to Big B and his shoddy belay! Ben Nevis 06/04/2013
(Photo: A J Thorley)

From our position on the summit plateau (NN161714) we descended towards the top of Red Burn Gully (NN155721). Once we reached the gully we enjoyed a very bumpy bum slide down the steep slope virtually all the way to the tourist track where we then continued to walk out on the route described when I did the Carn Mor Dearg Arete.It was certainly a cracking day out on Ben Nevis and one that will live with me for many years to come.

Big B after completing what we thought was the crux of Number Three Gully Buttress III***, Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we finally returned to the car we drove the short Distance to Glen Nevis where we met friends for celebration drinks and a well earned bar meal. A great way to end an amazing adventure on the UK's highest mountain.

Big B after topping out Number Three Gully Buttress III***, Ben Nevis. 06/04/2013