Red Gully II/III**, Fluted Buttress. Coire An T-Sneachda, Cairngorms. 26th February 2013

Early morning view of Coire An T-Sneachda, Cairngorm 26/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The fantastic weather is continuing over Scotland at the moment and it was great to be able to meet up with a friend of mine Dave and head up to the Northern Corries of Cairngorm to enjoy some winter climbing in alpine conditions.



Dave the happy belayer. Red Gully II/III**, Fluted Buttress. 26/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the ski centre it was busy, there was a good vibe in the air as the skiers and boarders hurried to ready themselves for the 1st uplift of the day. Climbers were also out in force and just like the skiers were in a hurry to get into the corries and make the most of the glorious weather and perfect climbing conditions.

Looking up at Red GullyII/III**, Fluted Buttress 26/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Walking into Coire an t-Sneachda (see Hidden Chimney Direct for grid refs) was wonderful the sun was just above the cliffs in front of us giving us a spectacular view of the cliffs as we walked in. We stopped on numerous occasions to chat with other climbers, walkers and ski tourers. It was fantastic to meet so many happy people out to make the most of the fantastic weather.

Dave doing battle with the crux pitch of Red Gully II/III**, Fluted Buttress. 26/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once beneath the cliffs of Fluted Buttress we stopped to layer up and gear up before ascending the steep approach slope to the 1st belay stance. Luckily for us previous climbers had already cut a nice stance into the concrete like snow and setting up our belay only took minutes. Once all was ready I ascended the 1st pitch to the 2nd belay stance, set up the belay and shouted down to Dave to start climbing.

Is that Usain Bolt!? No, it's Dave! Red Gully II/III**, Fluted Buttress. 26/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It took a little while for Dave to join me at the 2nd belay stance as he had been exposed to the chilling wind at the 1st belay stance and his hands had become numb. Once Dave's battle with the hot aches was over he soon joined me at the 2nd belay stance and we rearranged things so that I could lead on.

Looking down Red Gully II/III**, Fluted Buttress. 26/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The main difficulties of the climb were contained within the 1st pitch and from the 2nd belay upwards there was a further two pitches of pleasant straight forward climbing.

Fiacaill Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms. 26/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We topped out to glorious sunshine and fantastic views of the Northern Cairngorms, looking around the ring of the cliffs we could see all the other climbers topping out with big smiles on their faces as they to were greeted by the glorious sunshine.

Looking south across the vast expanse of the Cairngorms 26/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we sorted and packed the climbing gear away we walked around the top of the cliffs reflecting on what a fantastic climb we had just had in amazing conditions. To cap of the day we enjoyed a pint at Glenmore Lodge before travelling back to Glasgow. Cheers for joining me Dave, a great day!

Fiacaill Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms. 26/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Ben Vorlich, Loch Lomond. 24th February 2013

Early morning view of Ben Lomond & Loch Lomond.24/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

After yesterdays escapades it was nice to be able to have a little lie in and enjoy a cooked breakfast before being picked up by Mary at 9.30am to head along the shores of Loch Lomond to the Inveruglas visitor center.

Loch Sloy Dam. 24/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the visitor center (NN323098) it was the usual hustle and bustle that greeted us with coach trips arriving and other walkers out to make the most of the great weather. With day trippers out enjoying the views from the view point at the back of the centre the place had a real buzz to it.

A'Chrois & Beinn Narnain 24/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We quickly readied ourselves and it was good to escape the the visitor centre and begin the walk into Ben Vorlich. 1st crossing the main road and walking back on yourself towards Glasgow to the 4x4 track (NN318092) that provides access to the high voltage sub station where the track forks (NN309093). Taking the left track it soon forks again (NN303092) and this time taking the right track we continued towards Loch Sloy Dam.

The broad ridge of Ben Vorlich with Ben Lomond & Loch Lomond in the background. 24/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Just after an electricity pylon there is a small cairn that marks the start of the foot path (NN294105) that rises steeply up the open hill side. It zigs and zags its way up the hill side steeply until you gain the broad ridge (NN300112). From here the gradiant eases and it becomes pleasant walking all the way to the trig point that marks the summit of Ben Vorlich (NN295123).

Mary at the trig point of Ben Vorlich. 24.02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we arrived at the summit of Ben Vorlich we enjoyed lunch whilst I pointed out the surrounding hills to Mary. The cloud level was quite high so we had views as far north as Glen Coe and we could see all the Arrochar Alps. Ben Lomond looked stunning with the vast expanse of Loch Lomond below it.

Mary practicing self arrest. 24/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It soon dawned on us both that it was colder than we thought and wrapping up we took our summit photos and started to descend before we got too cold. On the way down I talked Mary through some simple things to do when descending steep snow and it did not take long for Mary to get the knack and soon we were on our way setting a nice steady pace.

Mary practicing self arrest. 24/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

On the way down I spotted a nice gentle slope and demonstrated to Mary how to self arrest using an ice axe. This proved to be great fun and we must have spent over an hour or so running up and down this slope practicing self arrest. We also practiced ascending steep slopes by cutting steps, this was a great way to keep warm in between practicing self arrest.

Mary practicing self arrest. 24/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Time was ticking by so we continued our descent enjoying fine views of the surrounding hills lit up by the afternoon sunshine. Just like yesterday this was a great way to end an enjoyable fun day out.

A'Chrois & Beinn Narnain with Ben Vane on the right. 24/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Doctor's Dilemma IV,4**, Coire Daimh. Beinn Udlaidh. 23rd February 2013

The continuing good weather across Scotland at the moment is providing winter climbers with ideal conditions at present. So I was happy to receive a call from Iain asking if I would like to join him and his friend Pete for a winter climb somewhere in the Bridge of Orchy area.

Pete gearing up with a butty to hand. 23/02/3013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

With the plan sorted I met Iain and Pete the following day early at the Dobbies Garden Centre just outside Stirling so that we could all share the same car north. Once my gear was in Pete's car we were off and discussed the days options on route. With Beinn an Dothaidh, Creise and Beinn Udlaidh all thrown in the mixer we all eventually settled on Beinn Udlaidh and to just go with what ever looked good once we were up into the coire.

Iain tackling the 1st pitch, Doctor's Dilemma IV,4**. Coire Daimh, Beinn Udlaidh. 23/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at Glen Orchy Farm we were the 1st to arrive and wasted no time in sorting the gear, shouldering our packs and starting the walk into Coire Diamh. It was a glorious morning, warm for this time of year as well. It felt quite unusual to be able to walk in wearing nothing but our base layers. Looking back down the 4x4 track we could see other cars arriving, but we were not bothered we had a good head start on all the other climbers and would still have the pick of what ever routes were in condition.

Pete taking on the crux of the 2nd pitch, Doctor's Dilemma IV,4**. CoireDiamh, Beinn Udlaidh. 23/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We soon arrived at the entrance to the corrie and things were not looking the best. With many lines looking thin and what appeared to be the remains of an unstable cornice looming over the crags. It was time to get the camera out and use the zoom function to our advantage. After spending some time humming and hawing whilst looking through the photo's we settled on either Doctor's Dilemma IV,4** or Junior's Dangle IV,4*. It was time to go for a closer inspection and see what would go.

Iain the happy belayer after topping out Doctor's Dilemma IV,4**. Coire Daimh, Beinn Udlaidh. 23/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving below the crags things were not as bad as they seemed from afar and we readied ourselves for the days adventure in high spirits. Once we were all ready we approached the base of Doctor's Dilemma IV,4** and made a good belay before Iain took on the 1st pitch. After a wobbly start he soon settled his nerves and was off out of sight quickly. It was not long before the shout came for myself and Pete to climb and we soon joined Iain on his perch just below the 2nd pitch.

Pete coming up the final ice fall of Doctor's Dilemma IV,4**. Coire Daimh, Beinn Udlaidh. 23/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Pete took on the 2nd pitch and after some hesitation on the crux he soon made sort work of the pitch and again the call from above came to climb. Iain went up 1st and I followed once there was a safe distance in between us. I understood almost immediately why Pete had taken his time with the crux it contained some awkward delicate moves. I must confess it was good to be seconding so all I had to do was enjoy the experience.

The Dalmally Horseshoe looking stunning in the winter sunshine. Ben Cruachan left & Stob Diamh right. 23/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving below the final pitch I carved myself a bucket to stand in and helped Pete and Iain rearrange the belay stance so that Iain could lead the final pitch. Once sorted Iain started off up the final pitch and seemed to set a nice steady pace and he soon ran out of rope. We dismantled the belay stance and cautiously started to follow. The rope was being taken in so we took this as we were on belay and like Iain we both set a steady pace and joined Iain at his stance on top of the cliffs.

Ben Starav with Beinn nan Aighenan sitting in front and Glas Bheinn Mhor on the right. 23/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Shaking hands with big smiles on our faces we started to pack the gear away and then walked out slowly enjoying the views across the Glen Etive hills. It was a fantastic way to end a great climb. Once back at the car we changed and popped along to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel and enjoyed a pint in the warming afternoon sunshine. A great way to end an enjoyable experience, thanks Iain and Pete for a cracking day.

Taxus The Icefall Finish IV,4***, North-East Corrie. Beinn An Dothaidh. 21st February 2013

Early morning view of the Glen Etive hills. 21/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

With the weather forecast for the Highlands of Scotland looking so good and with the risk of avalanche virtually none existent. How could I possibly say no to Big B when he called out the blue inquiring if I was free to climb? The plan was made and the scene was set for another ridiculous early start.


Me on the approach to Taxus III***, North-East Corrie. Beinn An Dothaidh 21/02/2013 (Photo: Brendan Bailey)

The following day Big B picked me up in Glasgow at 6.00am and with my gear packed into his car we were on our way north to the Bridge of Orchy hills. Only stopping briefly so Big B could get his mandatory cup of black coffee for that much needed early morning caffeine hit. We arrived at the new car park at Achallader Farm (NN312437) in good time and we were soon joined by another solo climber that I had met the previous day. We set to the task of sorting the climbing gear before setting off at a fair pace.



Lookiung up Taxus III*** to the bifurcation. 21/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We followed the new foot path that starts at the new car park that runs along the open hillside parallel to the farm track and rejoins the old path (NN323438) just before the bridge that crosses the rail way lines (NN323437), it adds around an extra 20 minutes onto the walk in. Crossing the bridge we continued along the original foot path by the fence until a faint stalkers track branches off to the right (NN326433).


Me high up on Taxus III*** 21/02/2013 (Photo: Brendan Bailey)

This track rises gently until in the distance a small hillock can be seen, this marks the entrance to the North-East Corrie of Beinn An Dothaid. When approaching the hillock (NN331415) you want to pass it on the right in between the hillock and the hillside of Beinn An Dothaid. Continue into the corrie and the cliffs will soon come into view. It is best to gear up in the basin of the North-East Corrie (NN331410) before approaching the climbs.




Big B just before tackling the crux of the final pitch of Taxus The Icefall Finish 21/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Gearing up just below a convenient rocky tor we chatted to the solo climber who we had met at the car park. He was a cheery sole and once he was sorted he was away up the steep approach slopes in no time at all and soon disappeared into the start of Taxus. As we left the shelter of the rocky tor to start up the steep approach slopes more climbers were arriving, we said hello and started to front point our way up the slope to the start of Taxus.

Looking down Taxus Icefall Finish IV, 4*** from the final belay stance before topping out 21/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

I was the 1st to arrive at the start of Taxus and wasted no time in getting two bomber ice screws in. Tying in and then tying into the ice screws to make a good belay. Big B arrived just as I had finished flaking the rope and he then tied in and then I clipped him into the belay whilst we flaked the other rope. Once we were both tied in and sorted Big B started up the 1st pitch. In what seemed like no time at all Big B called from above "safe", I responded with "off belay". I started to dismantle the belay and soon the call came "on belay, climb when ready!?" "Climbing!"



Me untying on the summit of Beinn An Dothaidh 21/2/2013 (Photo: Brendan Bailey)

The 1st pitch went smoothly and we were both smiling from ear to ear, it was such a good feeling to be on the ice. Swapping leads at Big B's stance it was my turn to lead. I soon settled into a nice rhythm and dispatched the 2nd pitch with little effort. Making a belay stance and once safe I shouted down To Big B, "Safe!" He called back "off belay!" I called down "Climb when ready?!" I started to take in and soon Big B joined me at my perch high up in the gully of Taxus. Admiring my ingenious use of a huge icicle with a smile Big B continued up to the bifurcation and started to chop a stance into the snow, showering me in debris.



Big B taking in the views from the summit of Beinn An Dotaidh with Beinn Dorain in the background 21/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Joining Big B at his stance I started to cut a ledge into the snow for myself to stand on whilst we rearranged the belay stance so we could swap back to Big B leading. I was tiring quickly as yesterdays exploits were catching up with me so it was best for Big B to lead on. He quickly set to the task of starting up The Icefall Finish to Taxus and soon I was being bombarded with debris from above as the ice was plating. With some cunning bobbing and weaving the majority of the falling ice missed me. I got the call from above and soon joined Big B at his stance where with big smiles, laughing and joking we took in the views from our perch.


Two unknown climbers on the right hand finish to Taxus Icefall Finish 21/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Again we rearranged things and Big B started off up the final pitch of the climb. I could not hear or see what was happening above me and I soon realized that Big B must be safe as he had ran out of rope and was now tugging on the rope signalling for me to climb. Quickly dismantling the belay stance I followed up the final pitch and soon joined a very happy looking Big B on the summit of Beinn An Dothaidh. Both of us were smiling from ear to ear and both of us could not quite take in what a special day this had been. Shaking hands we just took in the views in silence with big smiles on our faces.

The evening view looking over Loch Tulla 21/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

With reality hitting us in the form of a seriously cold wind we took shelter and sorted the gear whilst we refueled. Once everything was packed away, we had both eaten and drank we started to descend back to the car reflecting on what a magnificent day we had just enjoyed. The walk out seemed to go with no time at all as we chatted and laughed our way down the hillside taking in the views. A fantastic day in the Highlands of Scotland and a day that will live in my memories for a very long time. Cheers Big B!

Neilston Quarry. 19th February 2013

Me placing gear on Grassy Crack S, Neilston quarry 19/02/2013 (Photo: Stephen Crichton)

With the weather forecasts for the Glasgow area looking so pleasant, it was time for an early season look at Neilston Quarry. Although cold on the hands and feet the rock was dry and we enjoyed numerous climbs in the glorious winter sunshine.



Me on Grassy Crack S, Neilston Quarry 19/02/2013 (Photo: Stephen Crichton)

We were not the only ones out making the most of the glorious weather and we bumped into Stephen Crichton a local photographer. Who very kindly forwarded some of the pictures he had taken to me. If you like his work check out http://www.flickr/photos/onetrickstevie.

Me on Kristeen's Crack VD*, Neilston Quarry 19/02/2013 (Photo: Stephen Crichton)

West Gully III**, Coire Daimh. Beinn Udlaidh. 9th February 2013

Lean conditions in Coire Daimh, Beinn Udlaidh. 09/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It was another one of those early starts to the day that you dread, 04.55am who invented such a time? But none the less we were up and soon on our to pick up Ronan And Big B from the services at Dumbarton. All went smoothly and with everybody running on time we were on our way to Beinn Udlaidh.

Me just starting the 2nd pitch of West Gully III**, Beinn Udlaidh. 09/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the car park at Glen Orchy Farm we were the 1st to arrive and wasted no time in getting ourselves readied to walk into Coire Daimh for a days winter climbing. Ronan and Big B were both on a mission to get up into the coire to see if their chosen climb for the day was in condition, Peter Pan Direct V,5**.

Looking up the 2nd pitch of West Gully III**, Beinn Udlaidh. 09/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We steadied away and arriving in the coire we could see that the mild conditions of recent has had a major effect on the corrie with many lines looking thin and in some cases not even there. We could see Ronan and Big B traversing under the cliffs they must have decided on another option with the conditions being so mild, check out Ronan's blog.

Looking down the 2nd pitch of West Gully III**, Beinn Udlaidh. 09/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Myself and Vicks had settled on doing West Gully III**, it did look lean but climbable. The 1st pitch was straight forward and we soloed it to the steeping of the 2nd pitch where we took a belay stance and roped up. The ice was poor and too thin to take ice screws but once past the steepening conditions improved.

Me placing an ice screw high up on the 3rd pitch of West Gully III**, Beinn Udlaidh. 09/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

From our second belay stance we took the option of tackling the steep ice on the left of the gully rather than going for the easy right hand finish. It turned out to be a cracking option with the ice being solid and thick enough to take good ice screw placements. Just as I topped out two other climbers were preparing to abseil down and climb the same pitch as I had just done as they had spotted the good ice as they walked off from the upper cliffs.

Me the happy belayer, Beinn Udlaidh. 09/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Considering the mild conditions it turned out be a productive outing. Even more so when we realized that were down and back to the car for 1pm! This called for a celebration pint in front of the fire at the Crianlarich Hotel on the way home, the perfect way to end a great day out. 

Looking down into West Gully III**, two climbers tackling the final pitch. Beinn Udlaidh. 09/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)