West Gully III**, Coire Daimh. Beinn Udlaidh. 9th February 2013

Lean conditions in Coire Daimh, Beinn Udlaidh. 09/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It was another one of those early starts to the day that you dread, 04.55am who invented such a time? But none the less we were up and soon on our to pick up Ronan And Big B from the services at Dumbarton. All went smoothly and with everybody running on time we were on our way to Beinn Udlaidh.

Me just starting the 2nd pitch of West Gully III**, Beinn Udlaidh. 09/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the car park at Glen Orchy Farm we were the 1st to arrive and wasted no time in getting ourselves readied to walk into Coire Daimh for a days winter climbing. Ronan and Big B were both on a mission to get up into the coire to see if their chosen climb for the day was in condition, Peter Pan Direct V,5**.

Looking up the 2nd pitch of West Gully III**, Beinn Udlaidh. 09/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We steadied away and arriving in the coire we could see that the mild conditions of recent has had a major effect on the corrie with many lines looking thin and in some cases not even there. We could see Ronan and Big B traversing under the cliffs they must have decided on another option with the conditions being so mild, check out Ronan's blog.

Looking down the 2nd pitch of West Gully III**, Beinn Udlaidh. 09/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Myself and Vicks had settled on doing West Gully III**, it did look lean but climbable. The 1st pitch was straight forward and we soloed it to the steeping of the 2nd pitch where we took a belay stance and roped up. The ice was poor and too thin to take ice screws but once past the steepening conditions improved.

Me placing an ice screw high up on the 3rd pitch of West Gully III**, Beinn Udlaidh. 09/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

From our second belay stance we took the option of tackling the steep ice on the left of the gully rather than going for the easy right hand finish. It turned out to be a cracking option with the ice being solid and thick enough to take good ice screw placements. Just as I topped out two other climbers were preparing to abseil down and climb the same pitch as I had just done as they had spotted the good ice as they walked off from the upper cliffs.

Me the happy belayer, Beinn Udlaidh. 09/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Considering the mild conditions it turned out be a productive outing. Even more so when we realized that were down and back to the car for 1pm! This called for a celebration pint in front of the fire at the Crianlarich Hotel on the way home, the perfect way to end a great day out. 

Looking down into West Gully III**, two climbers tackling the final pitch. Beinn Udlaidh. 09/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)