No.6 Gully***, F Buttress. West Face, Aonach Dubh. 24th March 2013

West Face, Aonach Dubh. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Winter has certainly returned to Scotland and most of the United Kingdom. I must admit I was apprehensive when I received a call from Big B asking to climb. The weather forecast was not the most attractive I have ever seen, with snow flurries and wind speeds up to 60-80 mph, temperatures in between -26 to -30 and a high risk of avalanche this was going to be a day of Scottish gnarl at its finest!

Spring Lambs?  24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It was an unusually late start and Big B picked me up just after 8am. The roads were quiet as we made our way speedily up to Glen Coe. Arriving at the car park I was convinced opening the car door was not a good idea, as the wind was blowing so fierce it was rocking the car. Eventually we convinced each other that it was a good idea and we then set to the task of checking and sorting the climbing gear before packing the packs and making our way steeply up hill to the start of the days climb. (For grid refs and directions check Crypt Route IV,6***, Church Door Buttress. Coire Nam Beith, Bidean Nam Bian- West Top).

The frozen falls of Allt Coire nam Beitheach as we walked in. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The walk in is straight forward and to our surprise we spotted two spring lambs calling desperately for their mother. I hope the poor little chaps survive long enough to actually see spring! As we continued to walk in we noticed all the other climbers eager to get to the start of No.6 Gully. We just steadied away and discussed all the other options open to us just in case we ended up standing in line waiting to get onto the climb.

No. 6 Gully***, F Buttress. West Face, Aonach Dubh 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

As it turned out Big B's plan of a late start, turned out to be the right choice. As we approached the start of the 1st pitch all the other climbers were well ahead of us. We geared up in high spirits and chatted to two other climbers that only intended on doing the 1st pitch. They were also kind enough to let myself and Big B onto the route 1st, so we soloed the 1st pitch so the two other climbers did not have to wait on us in what can only be described as " not the best of days to be on the hill ".

Big B ascending the 3rd pitch in good Scottish conditions, No. 6 Gully***. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

I took the lead from the top of the 1st pitch on not the best of ice but none the less it was a good pitch and both myself and Big B enjoyed it. Big B took the next pitch which was almost like a chimney made from ice, this pitch was also very enjoyable. Swapping leads again, I lead the easy snow pitch to a cave under huge icicles just below the crux ice pitch. Here sheltered from the elements we ate and drank before Big B lead off.

The huge icicles at the 3rd belay stance, No. 6 Gully *** 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The crux pitch was excellent! Big B seemed to dispatch it with little effort. It was steep but the ice was excellent. We had a little bit of an advantage because the route was stepped out a little but not enough to take away the true character of the route. The pioneers that put up this route by cutting steps and hand holds into the ice must have their work cut out for them. Once I joined Big B at his stance I lead through on very thin ice, turf and rock to top out the route.

Big B taking in the views after topping out, No. 6 Gully***. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Big B soon joined me at the top of the route we shook hands just as the sun appeared for the 1st time this day and then looked around to form a plan to get us down to safety. There was an awful lot of snow drifts to negotiate but with careful route planning this was not an issue, we soon found a sound block to abseil from down to the safety of the coire floor. We packed away the climbing equipment and made with haste to the car and then onto to the Clachaig Inn for a celebration pint in front of roaring log burner! A fantastic way to end a fantastic day out, cheers Big B!

Me after topping out No. 6 Gully ***. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Ben Nevis Via The Carn Mor Dearg Arete. 13th March 2013

Early morning view over Fort William, Caol & Corpach. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The bright early morning sun woke me, and at 1st I must admit after yesterdays exploits I could have quite happily turned over and gone back to bed. I was shattered and aching all over. But eventually the warming of the tent forced me to get up out of my sleeping bag. Fumbling around I dressed myself then unzipped the tent inner so that I could put the kettle on and make the hot brews.

The early morning view of Carn Mor Dearg & Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

With hot brews to hand I started to make sausage butties for breakfast. We were both hungry and needed a good breakfast before even contemplating what today's adventure was going to be. We discussed many options including another a winter climb, maybe some cragging then it hit me. With such a good forecast I suggested that we do Ben Nevis via The Carn Mor Dearg Arete. This did not go down too well at 1st but Vicks soon came round to the idea.

Three young stags with the North Face of Ben Nevis in the background. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we had both finished breakfast and eaten the remainder of the hot cross buns as well for good measure I made us another hot brew before we then dismantled the tent and packed it away into the car. Double checking that we had left nothing behind we jumped into the car and traveled the short distance up the road to Torlundy (NN143771) where we turned off to park at The North Face car park (NN145764).

The North Face of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

To my surprise there were very few cars parked, it is normally heaving when conditions and the weather are forecast to be good. We readied ourselves when another car pulled in, it was the conservation team that are carrying out repairs on the foot path used to gain the North Face of Ben Nevis. After chatting with them for a little while we moved on and wished them luck with their project.

North-East Buttress, Observatory Ridge & Tower Ridge, North Face of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The foot path is well sign posted, at 1st it rises steeply in a south easterly direction before swinging around into a south westerly direction where it levels for a short distance and then again rises steeply in a south easterly direction to the upper car park and to the stile where the open hill side can be gained (NN148750). Here we rested for a little while before continuing, it was glorious day so we were in no rush. The sun beating down made it feel almost summer like.

Almost stood on this chap, a Ptarmigan hiding in the rocks. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we had rested we continued in a south easterly direction until a faint foot path forks off to the left of the main foot path (NN152744) it is not marked on the map or at least not my edition of the map. Here we stopped again and changed into our winter boots before continuing up the open hillside in an almost easterly direction.

The Carn Mor Dearg Arete leading up to Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It is hard going so we set a nice steady pace and taking our time made good progress. We stopped numerous times to take in the views and to refill the water bottles before we gained too much height and all water would be frozen. At one point I was quietly walking along in my own little world when I almost stood on a ptarmigan and startled myself, the little chap must have thought he was invisible.

The Carn Mor Dearg Arete 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Eventually we gained the saddle (NN172732) in between Carn Beag Dearg (NN171736) and Carn Dearg Meadhonach (NN176727). Here we rested again and now we could take in the views in all directions. The North Face of Ben Nevis looked inspiring still with its thick winter coat. It was cold even though the sun was shining so we donned the wind proofs and crampons before continuing.

The Carn Mor Dearg Arete as it sweeps up to the summit of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Even though we had only be standing a short time we had both chilled to the bone and it took a little while to get going again. The short walk from where we were to the summit of Carn Mor Dearg (NN178722) seemed to take an age as well as sapping all of our energy. It was a relief to finally arrive at the summit and see the splendor of the Carn Mor Dearg Arete sweeping around to Ben Nevis. It looked magical especially when the sun lit it up.

Looking along The Carn Mor Dearg Arete to Carn Mor Dearg 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

At 1st the arete drops in a southerly direction before sweeping around to the west, eventually sweeping around to the north as it joins with the shoulder of Ben Nevis. I could see before we dropped down onto the arete that it was banked out with very little rock exposed, I also noticed the wind slab that had built up on the leeward side of the arete (east & northern side). Care would have to taken as there was enough wind slab sitting on concrete like neve to cause a fall if care was not taken.

Beinn A' Bheithir from the summit of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We set off around the arete kicking into the wind slab until we were standing on the harder snow below, progress was slow but it was better to be safe than sorry. Besides the views of the surrounding mountains were stunning and we were in no rush. It felt great to be standing on this knife edge surrounded by such spectacular scenery. It reminded of the all the books that I have read and the photographs that inspired me to take to the mountains in the 1st place.

A raven on the summit of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Eventually we made it around the arete to the cairn (NN169711) that marks a safe descent in to the corrie below when the weather is fowl. There used to be a line of abseil posts but they have now been removed. Here we rested before taking on the final ascent to the summit of Ben Nevis itself.

The emergency shelter on Ben Nevis summit plastered in snow & ice. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once rested and refueled we started the final ascent up to the summit of Ben Nevis and like the ascent to Carn Mor Dearg it seemed to sap every ounce of energy. Progress seemed torturous at times and it was hard to maintain a steady pace. The slope we were ascending just seemed to get steeper and steeper with out respite. Until eventually it eased and the vast expanse of the summit plateau was laid out before us.

Looking across the cliffs of the North Face of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

My excitement was hard to contain, it is not often you can stand on the summit of Ben Nevis with clear views in all directions. I approached the summit trig point of Ben Nevis (NN167713) where I was greeted by a raven hopping around the summit trig point. I could not believe it, not only was a standing on the summit of Ben Nevis with clear views in all directions but there was also not another sole in sight. A truly magical and rare moment!

Looking west across the summit plateau of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We rested and strolled around the summit taking in the views whilst munching the last of our lunch. We were being followed closely by a pair of snow buntings they must have been hoping that we dropped a sandwich for them to nibble on. Once we finished our lunches we circled again taking photographs before taking our summit photographs and beginning the descent.

Snow Buntings on the summit of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

At 1st we followed the cairns that mark the tourist path until we turned off to the summit of Carn Dearg (NN159719). From this summit a simple snow gully leads down in a north westerly direction directly to the tourist foot path (NN147724). It was a fantastic descent with great views out to the west, we could even see Skye outlined in the distance.

Me standing on the summit trig point of Ben Nevis. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once back to the safety of the tourist foot path we removed the wind proofs and crampons then packed them away back into our ruck sacks. We were again now below the freezing line so we wasted no time in finding running water so we could re-hydrate and replenish the water bottles before moving on.

Looking across the Mamores towards Glen Coe. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We followed the tourist path to the northern end of the lochan (NN146732) where another unmarked footpath descends over open hillside in a northerly direction back to the upper car park. It was easy going and we soon reached the area where you can ford the river and regain the path back to the North Face car park. Changing back into our trainers we strolled slowly back to the car as the sun set over Fort William, Caol and Corpach.

Looking west over Loch Eil. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It was magical way to end an amazing day out in the Highlands of Scotland. A day that will certainly live with me for many years to come!

Meall an t-Suidhe. 13/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Stairway To Heaven III*, North-East Corrie. Beinn An Dothaidh. 12th March 2013

With word from a friend that the winter conditions on Beinn An Dothaidh are remaining good and with an improving weather forecast the scene was set for another early start. We left Glasgow full of enthusiasm and looking forward to a good day on the hill.

Early morning view of The Black Mount. 12/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the car park there were quite a few cars, so we assumed that the word must have spread. We quickly readied ourselves whilst chatting to a couple from Hereford that were enjoying their annual winter trip to Scotland. They were planning on attempting West Gully a nice straight forward climb. The couple were ready for the off before us so we said our good byes and wished them luck and said that we would hopefully catch them on the summit of Beinn An Dothaidh.

The North-East Coire of Beinn An Dothaidh. 12/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we were ready we started the walk into the corrie at a nice gentle pace, stopping every now and then to take in the stunning early morning views. The one thing I did notice is there was a lot more solid ice present on the ground than the last time I walked into this corrie. (See Taxus The Ice Fall Finish IV,4***, North-East Corrie. Beinn An Dothaidh for grid refs and directions).

Me sporting the Geordie Mohican. The start of Stairway to Heaven III*. 12/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We manged to catch up with the couple from Hereford again and chatted whilst we geared up for the days adventure. They decided that they did not like the look of the cornice looming over West Gully and opted to walk around onto the summit of Beinn An Dothaidh instead despite my assurances that it was stable and can could be passed on the right with little difficulty. We decided to go for Stairway To Heaven as we could see a party in front of us already on Taxus and another party were already on the way up to the start of Taxus. 

Me just starting Stairway to Heaven III*. 12/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

I 1st climbed Stairway To Heaven last year in totally different conditions, Taxus and West Gully had both avalanched. The snow was wet, unstable, with low cloud and drizzle just to add to the adventure. Luckily all went well and both me and my climbing partner survived the ordeal with out incident. It may not look like it in the pictures but today the turf was frozen like concrete with thick ice on all the ledges making this an all together different adventure.

Me cutting a belay stance into the concrete like neve and ice just below the final pitch of Stairway to Heaven III*. 12/03/2013
(Photo: A J Thorley)

Starting the climb the 1st thing I notice was everything was bone dry and frozen that hard it made it virtually impossible to get any purchase with my ice tools. The 2nd thing I noticed was all the cracks were also frozen solid making either finding protection or pick placements in the cracks impossible. Today like my last adventure was not going to be straight forward.

Me just starting to make my way up the iced up ledges of the final pitch of Stairway to Heaven III*. 12/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It had taken some time for me to complete the 1st pitch and I must admit it was relief to gain the saddle. I made a belay with ice screws in the concrete like ice then shouted down to Vicks to climb. Once on the saddle with me I swapped things around and lead up to the base of the 3rd pitch where with great difficulty I managed to fashion a belay with an ice screw and a couple of wires I managed to get into the only ice free crack on the crag.

Some of the locals. 12/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Continuing up the 3rd pitch of the route things seemed to be getting harder, I could not gain purchase on either the turf or ice. It was simply frozen too hard. I manage to find some good hooks and I also managed some good torquing moves but eventually after the best part of two hours I had to concede that it would be safer to back off and leave it for another day. In total I managed maybe two thirds of the final pitch before then having to reverse the moves I had just made to get me up there in the 1st place and this was equally as difficult.

Beinn Achaladair & Beinn An Dothaidh. 12/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once back down to the saddle we managed to arrange an abseil and abseiled down into West Gully where we bumped into two of the climbers that we had seen on Taxus. They had been watching my progress or lack of from Taxus and commented that I had done well to get as far as I did. This cheered me up a little and now that I have had time to reflect upon this attempt at Stairway to Heaven I am quite pleased to get as far as I did and back to safety without incident.

Buchaille Etive Mor. 12/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We said our good byes to the other climbers and waited until they were safely out of the gully and then we started our descent. Once back into the safety of the corrie floor we packed the climbing equipment and then strolled back to the car before traveling the short distance to camp at the Kings House Hotel.

Hats On The Hill

 
A friend, Karen McIntyre is hosting an event on Ben Arthur this weekend 23rd-24th March!!! For further information about Hats On The Hill please click here.

Me sporting one of Karen McIntyre's creations. The Geordie Mohican at the start of Stairway to Heaven on Beinn An Dothaidh. 12/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Crypt Route IV,6***, Church Door Buttress. Coire Nam Beith, Bidean Nam Bian - West Top. 9th March 2013

The West Face, Aonach Dubh as we walked in. 09/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The good winter climbing conditions are continuing throughout the Highlands of Scotland, but unfortunately the weather is not. It was another one of those early morning starts and once ready we were off, 1st calling into The Green Welly Stop at Tyndrum to meet friends and swap cars before continuing further north in to Glen Coe for the days adventure.

The walk into Coire Nam Beith with members of mountain rescue. Stob Coire Nam Beith, North Face in the background. 09/03/2013
(Photo: A J Thorley)

We stopped at the car park (NN139567) just at the entrance to Achnambeithach opposite the turn off for the Clachaig Inn, just off the A82 that runs through Glen Coe this was to be the starting point of the day. The car park was busy with folk from mountain rescue, at 1st we thought this was a training exercise but we soon found out otherwise after chatting to some of the team members. Unfortunately a climber had fallen the previous day and due to the extreme weather conditions on that day the body of the climber had to be left over night until better weather could allow the mountain rescue team to recover the climber's body today. More information here.

Approaching Church Door Buttress? 09/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Putting this unfortunate incident to the backs of our minds we sorted and divided the climbing equipment equally between us before starting the steep ascent into Coire Nam Beith. Leaving the car park we walked a short distance west along the road and crossed over the river where a small hop over the crash barrier leads to the gate (NN137566) and public access to the hillside. The foot path ascends steeply in a southerly direction along side Allt Coire Nam Beitheach until a levelling is reached just in front of the North Face of Stob Coire Nam Beith (NN139546), this also marks the entrance to Coire Nam Beith (NN140551). Here the foot path also changes direction and leads in a southeasterly direction deeper into the coire towards our target for the day Church Door Buttress (NN143544).

Iain starting the approach to Crypt Route IV, 6***, Church Door Buttress. 09/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We stopped below the steep approach slopes in what seemed like worsening weather to don the crampons and get the ice axes out before making our approach to below the crags. Iain suggested that before we move on we should offer assistance to the mountain rescue team if they required it, I agreed this was good idea, especially considering all that mountain rescue do to keep us safe. After a brief chat with one of the team leaders our offer of assistance was politely declined, I must confess I felt quite relieved especially after the incident I was involved with last year in Wales, see here. Waving farewell to the mountain rescue team and wishing them safe passage we continued up the steep approach slopes to below the crags.

My view of the start of Crypt Route IV,6***, Church Door Butttress. 09/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving below the crags we were not sure where we were the high winds and fierce gusts were blowing the powder snow everywhere, this combined with low cloud was making for difficult route finding. Eventually we decided that we were below Diamond Buttress so moving further up under the crags we passed over Central Gully I/II** and under Collies Pinnacle two unmistakable features even in the worst of weather we did manage to identify. We found a nice area just at the foot of Church Door Buttress to gear up, eat and drink before starting the climb. Once ready Iain led off up the gully to the start of Crypt Route IV,6***, he soon disappeared into the whiteness above leaving me at my stance surrounded by the impressive cliffs of Church Door Buttress. It was strange standing there attached to a small spike of rock being battered by the fierce winds and snow flurries all alone in my own little world. I could not hear a thing from above over the noise from the wind so when the ropes tightened I took this as my signal to climb and sure enough as I climbed the ropes were taken in and I was soon with Iain at his perch just below the entrance to Crypt Route.

Iain just before leaving the 2nd belay stance of Crypt Route IV,^***, Church Door Buttress. 09/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Iain in his normal happy go lucky manner suggested that I lead on but unfortunately for me the 1st of many bouts of the hot aches had just set in. I cut a stance in the snow best I could and then helped Iain to change the belay over so he could lead on whilst hopefully I recovered from the hot aches. He soon disappeared full of his usual enthusiasm into Crypt Route. I could for a little while hear his grunts and shouts of  "come on!" As he got to grips with things somewhere in the darkness in front and above me. But the wind seemed to be increasing and now I was getting a serious battering. All I could was stare up into the abyss above me and hope Iain was ok as I stood there in my own little world watching my gloves and jacket turn to ice. As with the 1st pitch I could not hear a thing and took the tightening of the ropes as my signal to start climbing.

My view of Aonach Dubh through the keyhole from the 2nd belay stance of Crypt Route IV,6***, Church Door Buttress. 09/03/2012
(Photo: A J Thorley)

I dismantled the belay stance and then started the climb into Crypt Route, it dawned on me almost straight away just how cold I had become. My movement was clumsy and I felt uncoordinated but I was determined. The initial  ice pitch I managed without difficulty but then the steepening came and the terrain changed to almost over hanging iced up rock. I found the good hooks that Iain must have used and then manged to bridge across the chimney. This method served me well until I came to a leftward move to gain the belay stance above me. I can only describe this move as the most awkward mountaineering move I think I have ever had to do in my life. Not only is it awkward it is also strenuous. At this point I started to get frustrated, the hot aches were coming on and I was loosing the grip on my axes. I lost my footing and in my frustration put a crampon point through the back of my over trousers into my calf which then with even more frustration got caught in the upper of my boot. I was in a proper pickle in the most silly of positions. Eventually with some calming words from Iain I wriggled my way free from my own crampon trap and some how managed to wriggle up to his stance where I was then just to add insult to injury completely overwhelmed with the hot aches.

Diamond Buttress & Church Door Buttress, Bidean Nam Bian. 09/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Patiently Iain waited for me to recover from the hot aches before suggesting that we abseil down, I was determined to continue and now sheltered from the wind I felt a lot better. It took a while for the sickness and the dizziness to pass but once it did I felt good and again like before helped Iain to rearrange things so he could lead on. Smiling Iain disappeared some where above me at 1st quickly and then he came to a stop. I could hear the swearing and cursing from above today was not to be our day. After yet more swearing and cursing the call came to take on blue. Iain was stuck and he was going to have to use all his skills and imagination to get down from where he was. Eventually the call came to give him slack and some how not sure how he managed to get back to the belay where with a smile he said, "shall we abseil out of here?" I agreed and using the insitu tat we made our abseil retreat from Crypt Route. A word of warning to anybody that tries this, it is almost as difficult as climbing up into it in the 1st place!

The Aonach Eagach ridge as we walked out. 09/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Returning to the rucksacks we ate and drank a little then made our escape back down into the safety of the corrie below. We found a nice little spot coiled the ropes and packed the climbing equipment away before descending back along the foot path back to the car. Whilst packing the gear in to the car Iain declared, "same again next week?" with that happy go lucky smile. "How could I refuse!?" I replied!

The Vent II/III*, No1 Buttress. Coire An Lochain, Cairngorms. 5th March 2013

Coire An Lochain, Cairngorms. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

With the good winter climbing conditions continuing throughout the Highlands of Scotland the alarm clock was set for another early start. We had packed everything the night before and after a quick breakfast we picked up the bags, left the flat and went downstairs to jump into the car for the off. Today's destination was to be the Northern Cairngorms.

Me high up in The Vent II/III*, No 1 Buttress. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Usually the journey north from Glasgow to Aviemore is straight forward and can be done with plenty of time to arrive, walk out and then get two climbs done. But today with an incredible amount of success we managed to get stuck behind every slow moving vehicle on the motor way and just to add insult to injury we also managed to get stuck in the road works just for good measure.

Me tackling the crux of The Vent II/III*, No 1 Buttress. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving late at the Cairngorm Mountain Base Station we wasted no time in getting ready for the days adventures. The car park just like last week was busy and there was again a good vibe in the air as everybody readied themselves to make the most of the continuing settled conditions across Scotland. Once we had checked everything we were off to Coire An Lochain. (See Savage Slit S***, No4 Buttress. Coire An Lochain, Cairngorms.23rd July 2012 for grid refs and directions).

Me at the 2nd belay stance of The Vent II/III*, No 1 Buttress. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The walk in is straight forward and we did manage it in good time at a nice steady pace. We stopped below and to the left of the crags to consult the guide book. Our original plan had been to climb The Vent II/III* and then to drop back down into the coire and then climb Ewan Buttress III**, but arriving late this was not going to happen. Gearing up we settled on doing The Vent as it looked like there was two instructional groups on Ewan Buttress.

Me just leaving the 2nd belay stance of The Vent II/III*, No 1 Buttress. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Now that we were geared up, eaten and had a little to drink we made our way up and then traversed around the steep approach slopes to the start of The Vent, where we were greeted my members of the RAF on a winter climbing training day. I'm not sure how but they managed to get themselves into a proper pickle high up on the crux of the route and were having major difficulties in solving the problem. All we could do was wait for them to move on and keep close into the wall in an attempt to avoid the bombardment of ice that was falling from above us.

Me using a body belay to bring Vicks up to the plateau. The Vent II/III*, No 1 Buttress. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We waited until all the members of the RAF team had cleared the 1st pitch and I then started to lead off under a constant barrage of falling ice. It was quite a relief to get to the crux of the pitch as the ice was now missing me and flying straight over my head past me unfortunately down on to Vicks. For a grade II/III the crux of The Vent put up a good fight and is not to be under estimated. I soon got to grips with it and just as I was about to step over, again the barrage of falling ice from above started. I moved on as fast as I could and took a belay high above the crux to the right of the funnel away from the barrage of ice coming down from above.

The view across Coire An Lochain towards No 4 Buttress, you can just make out the line of Savage Slit S***/V,6**** 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

I called down to Vicks to start climbing, at 1st Vicks was moving quite quickly but then slowed down as she approached the crux. I could hear a lot choice language from down below and can only assume that Vicks was giving it her all to try and nail the crux. Eventually I heard a shout from below and it was Vicks asking me to take as she need a rest before continuing up to the belay stance. Soon a relieved Vicks joined me at the stance and after changing things over I continued up the steep exit slope of The Vent to the Plateau where I buried my axes tied in and took a body belay to bring Vicks up.

A pair of female Snow Buntings on the Cairngorm  Plateau. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

By the time Vicks had joined me on the plateau the cloud had come down thicker so we decided whilst putting the gear away we would just take a slow wander down after we had drank and eaten the remainder of our lunches. It was a cracking route that we had just completed and it was thoroughly enjoyable. I am looking forward to my next adventure, where ever it may be. 

Coire An Lochain, shrouded in low cloud as we walked out. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)