Monday 4 March 2013

Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis. 2nd March 2013

The morning view. Buachaille Etive Mor, Glen Coe. 02/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)


Having agreed the previous evening to avoid the winter climbing corries, we treated ourselves to a lie in and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. Discussing options over breakfast we decided upon an early season visit to Polldubh Crags in Glen Nevis one of many of my favourite climbing venues in Scotland. With the plan now made we finished our breakfasts and  then I went for a wander to take some pictures before jumping in the car and heading off to Glen Nevis.

The Kings House Hotel, Glen Coe. 02/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Usually when arriving at the crags of Polldubh in Glen Nevis it is quite difficult to get parked, but today the crags were quiet as we hoped they would be. We started to gear up and I suggested to Eve that we climbed two of my favourite routes, Heatwave S** and Secretaries' Direct S*** both Polldubh classics. Eve agreed and once we had geared up we began the very short walk to the base of Cavalry Crack Buttress. (See "Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis. 23rd September 2012" for grid refs and directions).

Cavalry Crack Buttress, Polldubh Crags. Look carefully and you can see two climbers on Drizzle HS*, just next to the pine tree. 02/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the start of Heatwave S** I must confess I was feeling a little nervous as this was my 1st multi-pitch lead of the new season. As we flaked the ropes and tied in my nerves soon settled. Eve had me on belay so I started to climb and once the 1st few moves were over I settled down and relaxed. The rock was cold on the hands and a little slippy in places but with a little care nothing to worry about. I settled into a nice rhythm and soon pitch after pitch went by with out incident. It felt good to be rock climbing so early in the season and to be climbing one of the most pleasant routes in Polldubh just added to the experience.

Eve just approaching the 2nd belay stance of Heatwave S**, Cavalry Crack Buttress. 02/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Topping out Heatwave S** we ate lunch whilst we coiled the ropes before scrambling up higher in amongst the crags to Secretaries' Buttress. Again we flaked the ropes and I tied in before I set off. The second pitch of Secretaries Direct S*** is wonderful with pleasant moves good rock and nice positive quartz hand holds. It is quite a bold pitch with spaced protection but that just adds to the overall excitement and enjoyment of the route. Topping out Secretaries Direct S***, we stopped to enjoy the views over Glen Nevis whilst eating the rest of our lunch and coiling the ropes before we scrambled back down to the car.

Me just starting the final pitch of Heatwave S**, Cavalry Crack Buttress. 02/03/2013 (Photo: Aoibhinn Bradley)

Packing the climbing gear in the car we stopped to look at the vast expanse of Polldubh crags and Eve suggested that we return again the following day. I agreed and we continued to pack the car quite contented with the days achievements. Once packed we called into Fort William to pick up some extra vegetables to go with supper before returning to the Kings House Hotel.

Me high up on the 2nd pitch of Secretaries' Direct S***, Secretaries' Buttress. 02/03/2013 (Photo: Aoibhinn Bradley)

Back at the Kings House Hotel we called in for a pint and to change into clean clothes. Whilst quaffing our drinks Eve suggested that she would like to have a go leading the following day. I agreed this was good idea and suggested The Gutter D*** the classic beginners multi-pitch climb of Polldubh. Eve reluctantly agreed and with the plan made it was time to return to the tents, make supper and turn in early for an early start the following day.

Eve cruising up the final slabs of Secretaries' Direct S***, Secretaries' Buttress. 02/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

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