Limekilns & The Hawkcraig, Fife. 28th August 2012

Limekilns is two limestone blocks offering some good climbing in a  pleasant location surrounded by woodland, situated in-between Charleston and Limekilns just off the A985 in Fife.

Gellet Block, West Face. Limekilns 28/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

From Glasgow take the M80 onto the A80 and then onto the new stretch of motorway M876 to the new Kincardine Bridge. Cross and then turn right onto the A985 and turn off for Charleston 45 minutes depending on traffic. Parking is available at either the post office (065 838) or just beyond the village green at the garages (068 683). From the garages there is a gate blocking access to the private road, use the pedestrian gate on the left and once through a small footpath winds uphill on the left into the woods and the blocks (070 837) will soon appear, 5-10 minutes walk.

Me gearing up with the aid of a handy branch. Limekilns 28/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Over the years there has been conflict in-between climbers and the local landowner, at one point access was banned and the lower sections of the blocks were smothered with grease to prevent climbing. Please be considerate when visiting, keep group sizes small, noise to a minimum, and be polite to folk passing by. Keep dogs under control and make sure all litter is removed. Hopefully this will maintain good relations with the landowner and climbing will continue to be permitted.

Me, Red Flag VS 4c*, East Face. Gellet Block, Limekilns 28/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving around 12 midday and after all the recent heavy rain we decided to go straight to the Gellet Block which has a tendency to be the quicker drying of the two blocks. The base of the block was still quite wet, muddy and the rock was still damp. But there was a gale blowing and the sun was shining so we knew it would soon dry. It was quite cold even though the sun was shining, we donned our wind proofs and geared up.

Me, One Ringer VS 4c, East Face. Gellet Block, Limekilns 28/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

As usual I started with my favourite warm up climb Red Flag VS 4c* then onto bridging my way up One Ringer VS 4c and Two Ringer VS 4c all on the South Face of the Gellet Block. By the time we had completed these three climbs the mud in front of the West Face had dried. So we went for the two classics DT's VS 4c** and White Ensign VS 4c**. Both enjoyable and quite pumpy climbs. Descent from the Gellet Block is via a stone staircase on the North Face, take care it can be very slippery after rain. We opted for putting a sling around a tree and setting up an abseil instead.

Me, Two Ringer VS 4c, East Face. Gellet Block, Limekilns 28/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The gale that was blowing seemed to be increasing and the Gellet Block was baring the brunt of it so we decided to go over to the more sheltered of the two blocks, The Sentinal. As we thought it was more sheltered so we sat down and had a bite to eat on the ground in a small clearing that was being warmed by the sunshine coming through the trees.

Me, Humbug VS 4c*, South Face. The Sentinel, Limekilns 28/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

My favourite climb on this block is Kiln Dance With Me E1 5a, now refreshed after lunch this was my chosen climb to start with. I've done it many times now and know the moves well, although I'm not entirely convinced its E1. It is poorly protected so take care. There is an insitu belay at the top with a stainless steel ring, the only way off the The Sentinal is to abseil. Back down I decided to go for the other classic Humbug VS 4c* and finished off with Dingley Dell S.

No hands abseiling, South Face. The Sentinel, Limekilns 28/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Back at the car we stripped off our harnesses and took off our jackets and started to load up the car with all the gear. We noticed the time and it was still quite early 5pm so I suggested to Vicks that we go over to The Hawkcraig a pleasant sea cliff not to far away for a little wind down before heading back to Glasgow. Vicks agreed and off we went.

Me just starting Dingley Dell S, South Face. The Sentinel, Limekilns 28/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The Hawkcraig is a pleasant and very popular crag. To get there from Glasgow follow the above directions but do not turn off for Charleston, instead continue onto Rosyth. Pass under the motorway and pick up the A921 to Aberdour. Once in Aberdour follow the sign posts to Silver Sands and park (198 851) around 1 hour depending on traffic. During busy periods and the summer a small fee is payable. The Hawkcraig (200 849) can be reached by scrambling down at either end. It is tidal, so be sure to check the tides before you go.

Me, Kiln Dance with Me E1 5a, South Face. The Sentinel, Limekilns 28/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

At 1st the gale that was blowing seemed to be easing so we started off by climbing The Lilly S** and Gunga Din S**. Both these climbs are excellent for the grade. Be warned the rock in the upper sections is suspect and since my last visit there does seem to have been a lot of holds broken off. The gale that we thought was easing had other ideas, the wind speed was increasing. The higher sections of the climbs where exposed to the gale and was becoming dangerous with a serious threat of being blown off. At this point we called it a day, it was getting late 7.30pm. We finished off with Escalator VD*.

Me on The Lilly S**, The Hawkcraig 28/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Returning to the car it was relief to be out of the wind, we packed away the climbing gear into the boot and jumped in. It had been a fantastic day even if there had been a gale force wind blowing all day. We set off back to Glasgow content with the days achievements. 
      

Me on Escalator VD*, The Hawkcraig 28/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)