Kyloe in the Woods, Kyloe Crag & Bowden Doors. Northumberland 3rd September 2012

Northumbria is one of my favourite climbing venues and has a lot to offer the climbing enthusiast. The crags may not be as grand as the crags found in Scotland but they do have many quality lines with grades of all standards. Northumbria is also a very popular bouldering destination with thousands of problems covering all grades that would keep even the keenest going for many seasons.

Kyloe in the Woods, Northumbria 03/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

As winter is now drawing in we decided to travel down the night before to get the most from the following day. From Glasgow it is around a two hour drive if the motorways are clear. Take the M8 from Glasgow to Edinburgh and then the Edinburgh ring road south until you pick up the A1 south. Don't be tempted to take the 1st turn off for Belford (104358), take the 2nd. Turn off the A1 right and continue on a minor road until you get to a T junction. Turn left passing the cafe and farm shop on your right. Within a hundred metres or so South Meadows Caravan Park (114332) will appear on your right and this is where we spent the night.

Me pulling through the crux of Z Climb VS 4c**, Kyloe in the Woods. Northumbria 03/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We arrived around 9pm and just had enough day light to pitch the tents before night fall. It did not take us long and soon we were all settled in the Mountain Hardware Hotel tucking into fajitas for supper. Once we had all eaten it was time for a quick shower and time to turn in for the night. It turned out to be quite a restless night as Belford is surrounded by huge farms and it is the height of the cropping season at the moment, so the local farmers have contractors in cropping day and night.

Mary having fun on The Flutings Direct VS 4c**, Kyloe in the Woods. Northumbria 03/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

During the night the wind speed picked up and over breakfast we discussed our options and decided to start the day at Kyloe in the Woods (047385). We arrived early and parked beside the Forestry Commission gate (035389) just off the minor road from Belford to Fenwick. The gate is locked but cross the fence at the lowered section and follow the 4x4 track straight ahead. Baring right and the crags will soon come in to view on the left. It is quite normal on your 1st visit to this crag to walk past it, don't worry the 4x4 track goes all the way around the forest and if you have missed it, it will appear on your right.

Me taking a break on Ramp and Wall, Kyloe Crag. Northumbria 03/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The sun was just breaking through the trees as we arrived at the crag adding to the magical setting this crag is located in. This crag is very popular with boulderers as it is sheltered from the elements all year round and the lower section stays dry almost all year round as well. It is not frequented by climbers very often but it does look like that is changing with areas of the crag now pretty clean from top to bottom. The forest has also been thinned in the area of the crag and some trees have also been felled that once stood in front of it. This is probably what is enticing climbers back to Kyloe in the Woods, as the crag can now breath and hopefully in time will become less lichenous. Don't be put off by the appearance of the crag, there are many worth while lines that offer great climbing with good protection. The Flutings Direct VS 4c**, Piccolo S** and Z Climb VS 4c** are excellent climbs and well worth the effort of searching out.

Me bridging across Deception Crack HS 4b**, Kyloe Crag. Northumbria. 03/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We left Kyloe in the Woods midday and returned to the car before driving the short distance to the farm (035398) just in front of Kyloe Crag (040639). Go through the sprung gate and follow the faint 4x4 track across the field until you see another gate on your right. Pass through this gate and follow a faint path to a fence with a rickety stile. Unlike Kyloe in the Woods, Kyloe Crag is a series of broken walls and at the stile there are numerous faint paths going through the ferns to the various climbing areas. The Quarry is reached by turning left just before the stile, cross the stile and another path on the left leads up and right to Saints Wall. Cross the stile and walk straight ahead the path will rise on the left to Overhanging Wall and then continues to the main area. Central Wall, Space Buttress and Deception Buttress.

Me on Flake Crack S 4b**, Kyloe Crag. Northumbria 03/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

I've been visiting Kyloe Crag for many years, in good weather it is a sun trap and is very popular. As I expected when we arrived it was busy, with a good vibe in the air. There were many parties climbing and it was quite obvious that we may have to wait to get onto the popular lines. We started with one my favourite climbs Christmas Tree Arete Direct VS 4c, which has a cracking finish on splendid holds just where you need them. Another good and obvious climb is Deception Crack HS 4b*** that certainly lives up to its name. Flake Crack S 4b** is also a superb climb, probably one of the best in Northumbria for the grade. Even though it was busy and we did not manage all the climbs that I wanted to do, it was still worth the effort.

Me on Black and tan S 4b**, Bowden Doors. Northumbria 03/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

When we returned to the car it was earlier than we expected so I suggested that we go back along the road to Bowden Doors (070325) the premier of Northumbrian crags. Vicks and Mary both agreed so we all jumped back into the car and set off. Bowden Doors is just outside Belford on the Belford to Wooler road B6349. Park (074632) on the roadside on the left just after the gates on the right. Pass through the gate and follow the faint path straight to the crag.

Vicks on Black and Tan S 4b**, Bowden Doors. Northumbria 03/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Bowden Doors is probably the most popular crag in Northumbria with many test pieces for the climber and boulderer. It is also possible to link a bouldering problem to a climb. This gives many many options and numerous variations on climbs making Bowden Doors an awesome crag to visit. Its popularity is starting to take its toll, so please follow the recommendations of the NMC when visiting.  The other reason for visiting this crag is it offers amazing views across Northumbria with all of the Cheviot Hills visable from the crag. Also looking out to sea you can see Lindisfarne and the Farne Islands.

Me bridging across Scorpion VS 4c**, Bowden Doors. Northumbria 03/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Compared to the sheltered crags that we had just been to Bowden is open to the elements and it was cold. We quickly geared up and tackled some of the classics of main wall. Starting with Black and Tan S 4b** which has a reachy start, if you get past this its a nice delicate rising rightwards traverse to a crack and easier climbing to the top. Next was the classic struggle of Grovel Groove MS*, it certainly lives up to its name if you get it wrong. The wind was catching this area of the crag so we moved onto Russett Groove VD***, my favourite climb at this crag. It may only be a VD but its fun and really enjoyable, a climb I normally solo to finish the day. Moving further along the crag I decided to go for Scorpion VS 4c**. This climb is aptly named, its a leftward facing obvious scoop that requires bridging to overcome it. The surprise in this climb is left right to the end. Checking the watches it was now getting late so we enjoyed the evening views across Northumbria from the top of the crag. It was cold exposed to the full force of the wind so we hurried back to our packs, made sure we had left nothing behind and dashed back to the car.

The evening view from Bowden Doors, Northumbria 03/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Vicks made the suggestion of going back to Belford and going for an evening meal at The Blue Bell Hotel as it would be late by the time we got back to Glasgow. We all agreed and off we went. The Blue Bell maybe a bit dated, but it is warm and the food is excellent for the price. We arrived just in time to place our orders and it was not long before we were all munching away enjoying our meals. It was a great way to end a fantastic day.