Doctor's Dilemma IV,4**, Coire Daimh. Beinn Udlaidh. 23rd February 2013

The continuing good weather across Scotland at the moment is providing winter climbers with ideal conditions at present. So I was happy to receive a call from Iain asking if I would like to join him and his friend Pete for a winter climb somewhere in the Bridge of Orchy area.

Pete gearing up with a butty to hand. 23/02/3013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

With the plan sorted I met Iain and Pete the following day early at the Dobbies Garden Centre just outside Stirling so that we could all share the same car north. Once my gear was in Pete's car we were off and discussed the days options on route. With Beinn an Dothaidh, Creise and Beinn Udlaidh all thrown in the mixer we all eventually settled on Beinn Udlaidh and to just go with what ever looked good once we were up into the coire.

Iain tackling the 1st pitch, Doctor's Dilemma IV,4**. Coire Daimh, Beinn Udlaidh. 23/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at Glen Orchy Farm we were the 1st to arrive and wasted no time in sorting the gear, shouldering our packs and starting the walk into Coire Diamh. It was a glorious morning, warm for this time of year as well. It felt quite unusual to be able to walk in wearing nothing but our base layers. Looking back down the 4x4 track we could see other cars arriving, but we were not bothered we had a good head start on all the other climbers and would still have the pick of what ever routes were in condition.

Pete taking on the crux of the 2nd pitch, Doctor's Dilemma IV,4**. CoireDiamh, Beinn Udlaidh. 23/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We soon arrived at the entrance to the corrie and things were not looking the best. With many lines looking thin and what appeared to be the remains of an unstable cornice looming over the crags. It was time to get the camera out and use the zoom function to our advantage. After spending some time humming and hawing whilst looking through the photo's we settled on either Doctor's Dilemma IV,4** or Junior's Dangle IV,4*. It was time to go for a closer inspection and see what would go.

Iain the happy belayer after topping out Doctor's Dilemma IV,4**. Coire Daimh, Beinn Udlaidh. 23/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving below the crags things were not as bad as they seemed from afar and we readied ourselves for the days adventure in high spirits. Once we were all ready we approached the base of Doctor's Dilemma IV,4** and made a good belay before Iain took on the 1st pitch. After a wobbly start he soon settled his nerves and was off out of sight quickly. It was not long before the shout came for myself and Pete to climb and we soon joined Iain on his perch just below the 2nd pitch.

Pete coming up the final ice fall of Doctor's Dilemma IV,4**. Coire Daimh, Beinn Udlaidh. 23/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Pete took on the 2nd pitch and after some hesitation on the crux he soon made sort work of the pitch and again the call from above came to climb. Iain went up 1st and I followed once there was a safe distance in between us. I understood almost immediately why Pete had taken his time with the crux it contained some awkward delicate moves. I must confess it was good to be seconding so all I had to do was enjoy the experience.

The Dalmally Horseshoe looking stunning in the winter sunshine. Ben Cruachan left & Stob Diamh right. 23/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving below the final pitch I carved myself a bucket to stand in and helped Pete and Iain rearrange the belay stance so that Iain could lead the final pitch. Once sorted Iain started off up the final pitch and seemed to set a nice steady pace and he soon ran out of rope. We dismantled the belay stance and cautiously started to follow. The rope was being taken in so we took this as we were on belay and like Iain we both set a steady pace and joined Iain at his stance on top of the cliffs.

Ben Starav with Beinn nan Aighenan sitting in front and Glas Bheinn Mhor on the right. 23/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Shaking hands with big smiles on our faces we started to pack the gear away and then walked out slowly enjoying the views across the Glen Etive hills. It was a fantastic way to end a great climb. Once back at the car we changed and popped along to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel and enjoyed a pint in the warming afternoon sunshine. A great way to end an enjoyable experience, thanks Iain and Pete for a cracking day.