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| Early morning view of the Glen Etive hills. 21/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley) |
With the weather forecast for the Highlands of Scotland looking so good and with the risk of avalanche virtually none existent. How could I possibly say no to Big B when he called out the blue inquiring if I was free to climb? The plan was made and the scene was set for another ridiculous early start.
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| Me on the approach to Taxus III***, North-East Corrie. Beinn An Dothaidh 21/02/2013 (Photo: Brendan Bailey) |
The following day Big B picked me up in Glasgow at 6.00am and with my gear packed into his car we were on our way north to the Bridge of Orchy hills. Only stopping briefly so Big B could get his mandatory cup of black coffee for that much needed early morning caffeine hit. We arrived at the new car park at Achallader Farm (NN312437) in good time and we were soon joined by another solo climber that I had met the previous day. We set to the task of sorting the climbing gear before setting off at a fair pace.
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| Lookiung up Taxus III*** to the bifurcation. 21/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley) |
We followed the new foot path that starts at the new car park that runs along the open hillside parallel to the farm track and rejoins the old path (NN323438) just before the bridge that crosses the rail way lines (NN323437), it adds around an extra 20 minutes onto the walk in. Crossing the bridge we continued along the original foot path by the fence until a faint stalkers track branches off to the right (NN326433).
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| Me high up on Taxus III*** 21/02/2013 (Photo: Brendan Bailey) |
This track rises gently until in the distance a small hillock can be seen, this marks the entrance to the North-East Corrie of Beinn An Dothaid. When approaching the hillock (NN331415) you want to pass it on the right in between the hillock and the hillside of Beinn An Dothaid. Continue into the corrie and the cliffs will soon come into view. It is best to gear up in the basin of the North-East Corrie (NN331410) before approaching the climbs.
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| Big B just before tackling the crux of the final pitch of Taxus The Icefall Finish 21/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley) |
Gearing up just below a convenient rocky tor we chatted to the solo climber who we had met at the car park. He was a cheery sole and once he was sorted he was away up the steep approach slopes in no time at all and soon disappeared into the start of Taxus. As we left the shelter of the rocky tor to start up the steep approach slopes more climbers were arriving, we said hello and started to front point our way up the slope to the start of Taxus.
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| Looking down Taxus Icefall Finish IV, 4*** from the final belay stance before topping out 21/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley) |
I was the 1st to arrive at the start of Taxus and wasted no time in getting two bomber ice screws in. Tying in and then tying into the ice screws to make a good belay. Big B arrived just as I had finished flaking the rope and he then tied in and then I clipped him into the belay whilst we flaked the other rope. Once we were both tied in and sorted Big B started up the 1st pitch. In what seemed like no time at all Big B called from above "safe", I responded with "off belay". I started to dismantle the belay and soon the call came "on belay, climb when ready!?" "Climbing!"
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| Me untying on the summit of Beinn An Dothaidh 21/2/2013 (Photo: Brendan Bailey) |
The 1st pitch went smoothly and we were both smiling from ear to ear, it was such a good feeling to be on the ice. Swapping leads at Big B's stance it was my turn to lead. I soon settled into a nice rhythm and dispatched the 2nd pitch with little effort. Making a belay stance and once safe I shouted down To Big B, "Safe!" He called back "off belay!" I called down "Climb when ready?!" I started to take in and soon Big B joined me at my perch high up in the gully of Taxus. Admiring my ingenious use of a huge icicle with a smile Big B continued up to the bifurcation and started to chop a stance into the snow, showering me in debris.
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| Big B taking in the views from the summit of Beinn An Dotaidh with Beinn Dorain in the background 21/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley) |
Joining Big B at his stance I started to cut a ledge into the snow for myself to stand on whilst we rearranged the belay stance so we could swap back to Big B leading. I was tiring quickly as yesterdays exploits were catching up with me so it was best for Big B to lead on. He quickly set to the task of starting up The Icefall Finish to Taxus and soon I was being bombarded with debris from above as the ice was plating. With some cunning bobbing and weaving the majority of the falling ice missed me. I got the call from above and soon joined Big B at his stance where with big smiles, laughing and joking we took in the views from our perch.
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| Two unknown climbers on the right hand finish to Taxus Icefall Finish 21/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley) |
Again we rearranged things and Big B started off up the final pitch of the climb. I could not hear or see what was happening above me and I soon realized that Big B must be safe as he had ran out of rope and was now tugging on the rope signalling for me to climb. Quickly dismantling the belay stance I followed up the final pitch and soon joined a very happy looking Big B on the summit of Beinn An Dothaidh. Both of us were smiling from ear to ear and both of us could not quite take in what a special day this had been. Shaking hands we just took in the views in silence with big smiles on our faces.
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| The evening view looking over Loch Tulla 21/02/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley) |
With reality hitting us in the form of a seriously cold wind we took shelter and sorted the gear whilst we refueled. Once everything was packed away, we had both eaten and drank we started to descend back to the car reflecting on what a magnificent day we had just enjoyed. The walk out seemed to go with no time at all as we chatted and laughed our way down the hillside taking in the views. A fantastic day in the Highlands of Scotland and a day that will live in my memories for a very long time. Cheers Big B!
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