Quartzvein Scoop IV,4***, Coire Daimh. Beinn Udlaidh. 24th January 2013

Early morning view of Coire Daimh, Beinn Udlaidh. 24/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

 It was the usual early morning rise and this morning I was up and ready before the alarm clock went off. I had a restless night as I was so excited about meeting up my friend Brendan to go out do some winter climbing, my 1st attempt at winter climbing since injuring my thigh in the Northern Cairngorms. I was so keen to get going I was standing outside my flat 15 minutes before Brendan was due to pick me up and thankfully on this chilly morning Brendan as ever was on time.

Big B cruising up Quartzvein Scoop IV, 4***, Coire Daimh. Beinn Udlaidh. 24/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the Glen Orchy Farm (NN260347) It was obvious that the word had spread about there being good ice in Coire Daimh. Virtually all the car parking spaces were taken and Brendan only just managed to squeeze his car in. We jumped out, changed in to our climbing attire, checked and packed the climbing equipment and started the walk in.

The views of the cliffs of Coire Daimh from the 1st belay stance of Quartzvein Scoop IV,4***. Beinn Udlaidh. 24/01/2013
(Photo: AJ Thorley)

1st of all you have to negotiate a field with killer pigs (remember to bring packets of biscuits with you) in it to gain the 4x4 (NN263346) track on the other side of the field that rises steadily up through the forest. Turn off the 4x4 track (NN269335) and cross rough ground into Coire Daimh (NN273332).

Big B high up on the 1st pitch of Quartzvein Scoop IV, 4***, Coire Daimh. Beinn Udlaidh. 24/01/2012
(Photo: A J Thorley)

There were lots of folk walking in and the vibes were good as all the different climbing parties discussed tactics and there routes of choice for the day. Our chosen route was Quartzvein Scoop IV,4*** a classic ice route that I did a few years ago with other friends.

One for my sponsors SealSkinz. 24/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving below the crags and ice falls it was difficult at 1st to find our way to the starting point as the cloud was low down. But after a brief look at the guide book we soon identified where we were and made our way along the base of the ice falls and crags to the start. Arriving it was obvious our chosen route was popular as there was already parties waiting to get on it. So we just chilled out, munched and slowly readied ourselves whilst waiting on the route to become free.

Looking down Quartzvein Scoop IV, 4*** from just above the 2nd belay stance. Coire Daimh, Beinn Udlaidh. 24/01/2013
(Photo: A J Thorley)

Once the route became free we made our way up to the 1st belay stance, set up our belay and then we were ready to start. Now I must confess I was feeling a little nervous as I had no idea as to how my thigh would hold up to front pointing up near vertical ice. Luckily Brendan took the 1st lead and he cruised up it with seemingly no effort at all. Brendan gave me the shout and it was now my turn to climb, and surprisingly my thigh gave me no cause for concern and I soon joined Brendan at the 2nd belay stance.

Big B with the views north towards the hills of Glen Etive & The Black Mount in the background. Beinn Udlaidh 24/01/2013
(Photo: A J Thorley)

After exchanging leads at the 2nd belay stance and taking in the views from our new perch I started up the 2nd pitch of our route. It was not as enjoyable as the 1st pitch but still good fun and once I was focused it did not take me long to top the route out. There was not much to make a belay from on top so I found some good turf planted the axes firmly made myself a good bucket seat in the deep snow and took a body belay. My signal to Brendan to start climbing was a series of tugs on the rope and he soon joined me.

A panoramic view of Coire Daimh, Beinn Udlaidh. 24/01/2013 (Photo: Brendan Bailey)

We shook hands on top to thank each other for an excellent climb and enjoyed the views whilst we coiled the ropes and packed away the climbing equipment. With big smiles and lots of laughter we walked out slowly, enjoying the views and chatting to the other climbing parties as they topped out their routes. It was a fantastic day out and great way to end an enjoyable climb.    

Me just before we started the walk out, Beinn Udlaidh. 24/01/2013 (Photo: Brendan Bailey)

Stob Coire Raineach & Stob Dubh (Buachaille Etive Beag). 19th January 2013

Sron na Lairig. 19/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Buachaille Etive Beag in Glen Coe is a fantastic walk both in summer and winter. It is also a fantastic group of hills to introduce folk to winter walking, as it is a relatively short day out and with plenty for the novice winter walker to enjoy. It also sits in a fantastic situation within Glen Coe offering amazing views of the Bidean nam Bian massif, the Aonach Eagach Ridge and Buchaille Etive Mor on a clear day. I met members from the Scottish Hillwalking & Activities Group early morning at Kinning Park Underground Station and as usual everybody was on time. It took little time to introduce ourselves to each other and the travel arrangements were soon made and we were on our way to Glen Coe. We had also made arrangements to meet folk from Edinburgh in Glen Coe the previous evening.

Stob Dubh with Beinn Fhada on the right. 19/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We arrived at what is known as the Beehive Car Park (NN188562) in Glen Coe at 9.30am and were soon joined by the folk from Edinburgh. We all introduced ourselves whilst we readied ourselves for the days walking and soon we all ready and off for a snowy adventure.

Iain, Rachel, Jamie, Kerri, Klaas & Helen at the summit of Stob Coire Raineach. 19/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The walk into these hills is very straight forward and is on a well made path that is quite clear. From the car park pick up the path and start walking into the glen in a south westerly direction until the path forks (NN184558). Taking the left turning the path starts to rise gently at 1st in a southerly direction until it steepens (NN184553) and then it ascends the hillside steeply to the bealach (NN187545), but the path is good and there are steps. We all rested at the Bealach before ascending the 1st peak Stob Coire Raineach (NN191548), which we all achieved without difficulty. There was a cold wind blowing and we wasted no time in taking our photos and celebrating our success before quickly descending again to the bealach.

Rachel & Helen at the Bealach. 19/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Again we all rested at the bealach before taking on the challenge of Stob Dubh. Once rested we started the ascent to gain the ridge which eventually leads to the summit of Stob Dubh (NN179535). It is a great little ridge with a nice narrowing towards the summit and it offers just enough excitement to keep all entertained. As with the previous peak we wasted no time in descending back to the bealach as now the wind had increased and it was snowing. Once back down and away from the full force of the wind we stopped to discuss snow packs and gradients of slopes before we all tried out different methods of walking in crampons. After a short rest again we all descended back to the cars without incident.

The ridge of Stob Dubh. 19/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we had all changed we all called into the Kingshouse Hotel for a well earned celebration drink. A great way to end a great outing with a brilliant group of folk. Thank you to all that attended I thoroughly enjoyed the day!     

Iain, Rachel, Klaas, Jamie & Kerri at the summit of Stob Dubh. 19/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Ben Hope. 17th January 2013

We were up early mainly due to to the fact that Vicks had quite an unsettled night, due to not being able to find a comfortable position to sleep in. The temperature during the night had also dropped and it was freezing. So both of us reluctantly dragged ourselves from our sleeping bags, dressed and then braved the cold to dismantle the tent. Once everything was packed away in the car we put the kettle on to make the brews, whilst searching the area we had been camped in to make sure we had not left anything behind. Brews made we jumped in the car and set off north for our days walk.

Sunrise in the far north of Scotland. 17/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It did not take us long to drive to the turn off  onto the minor single track road that leads to Ben Hope, but within a few minutes of driving a long this road we turned back. The road in places was a sheet of solid ice, so rather than risking ending up in a ditch we decided to drive all the way to the far north cost and then back on ourselves to see if we could get to the starting point of our days walk from the north. Luckily this plan worked and we also got to watch a spectacular sunrise as an added bonus.

Ben Hope. 17/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the car park just opposite a barn (NC462477) I put the kettle on whilst we readied ourselves for the days walk. Sipping at our hot brews I folded the map and doubled checked we had everything before we finally locked the car and started off.

Ben Loyal. 17/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It is quite a steep ascent that starts the moment you leave the car park and it did not take long for us to warm up. We set a steady pace and ascended the hillside in a north easterly direction until we reached a small leveling (NC465481). Where we stopped to take layers off and take in the views. Once sorted we continued along the foot path in the same direction until we reached the broad ridge (NC472483) of Ben Hope. As soon as we gained the ridge we were exposed to the full force of the wind and the temperature must have been as cold as -20 if not colder.

The summit trig point of Ben Hope with Ben Loyal in the background. 17/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We quickly layered up again and set a steady pace in a northerly direction towards the summit of Ben Hope. Luckily the wind was on our backs and this made the ascent easier. Arriving at the summit of Ben Hope (NC477502) we were greeted by spectacular views but unfortunately it was just too cold to take the time to enjoy them. With the wind now blowing that severely we could feel it through every seem in our jackets and with completely numb hands we wasted no time in facing the wind and starting a grim descent. Luckily it is quite a straight forward descent and were soon back at the small leveling that we had stopped at on the ascent, only to be treated to a bout of the hot aches as circulation returned to the hands.

The summit trig point of Ben Hope with Ben Klibreck in the background. 17/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once the pain and discomfort had passed we put our crampons on and descended the icy path back to the car. Arriving back at the car Vicks wasted no time in starting the car and getting the heaters on whilst I put the kettle on to make the hot brews. We both changed as quickly as we could and jumped in the car with our hot brews to warm up. Once we finished we started the long drive back to Glasgow. It was a short lived trip to the far north of Scotland, but luckily we got to enjoy some magnificent views making it a worth while trip. 

Sunset in the far north of Scotland. 17/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Conival & Ben More Assynt. 16th January 2013

It felt good to heading north after such a prolonged absence from the Highlands of Scotland. The injury I sustained to my upper right thigh shortly after my last blog post whilst climbing with a friend in the Northern Corries has now almost fully healed. Although hill walking is still causing me a little discomfort, it is tolerable for as long as I take my time and avoid taking large steps up. I am hoping in the next few weeks to return to full fitness and to be able to start climbing again very soon. Putting injury to one side it felt good to arrive at Inchnadamph  (NC251216) late at night with the stars out in full view for all to see.

Conival from Ben More Assynt. 16/01/2013  (Photo: A J Thorley)

We spent the previous night camped in the car park and enjoyed our evening meal of spaghetti bolognese watching the shooting stars wrapped up warm in our down jackets at one of the picnic benches in the car park area. Nature certainly knows how to impress and the winter night skies of Scotland are truely  magnificent. When we woke early we readied ourselves at the same bench we sat at the previous night, the sky was still clear and the stars were just starting to fade as the morning sun rose. With hot brews at hand we gradually warmed up whilst sorting out kit for the days walk.

Breabag from Ben More Assynt. 16/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we had sorted everything and finished our brews we started our walk into Conival under the light of our head torches. I do not know why but there is something special about walking in the darkness with only your head torch to see by, maybe it is the feeling of solitude I get that makes it so pleasant? We wandered slowly from the car park (NC251216) along the road for a short distance before turning off right onto a 4x4 track (NC251218), which in places was covered in thick solid ice. It rises steadily and shortly after crossing the bridge (NC259219) it fades a way into a foot path (NC275209) and it was at this point that we stopped for a little while to take layers off and put the head torches away as day light was now upon us.

Looking south east from the summit of Ben More Assynt. 16/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Continuing along the path we stopped every now and then to watch the huge herds of deer that must have come down low in search of food in this vast frozen wilderness. Eventually the path steepened (NC290205) in a north easterly direction as it ran along side Allt a Choinne Mhill. After a good steady uphill pull we arrived at a leveling (NC298210) where we rested for a little while and watched the deer down below us. Once rested we continued on our way in a south easterly direction along the broad ridge of Conival to the summit cairn (NC303199). Here we donned our jackets, rested, whilst watching the ever changing views as we enjoyed our lunch and drank much needed fluids.

Ben More Assynt from Conival. 16/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The connecting ridge from Conival to Ben More Assynt is rocky, steep and awkward in places in summer conditions, but today it was covered in deep snow making progress towards Ben More Assynt even more difficult than normal. Walking in a easterly direction at times seemed torturous as progress was slow and we both kept falling into the gaps in between the rocks as we could not see them due to the deep snow. Once we reached the lowest point of the connecting ridge the conditions underfoot eased and we made made steady progress until we reached the summit of Ben More Assynt (NC318201). As we arrived the weather changed and were treated to splendid views in all directions which we enjoyed for some time.

Ben Klibreck from Ben More Assynt. 16/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Our original intentions were to continue onto the next unnamed top (NC324193) and then descend to Dubh Loch Mor (NC317189). Then walk back to Inchnadamph from there, but in the end we decided to stay on the high ground and retraced our steps back to Conival. The logic being we had already exposed the gaps in the rocks so hopefully we would be able to avoid falling into them again. We would hopefully also be able to watch the sunset from Conival before we descended, but this was not to happen for as we returned to Conival the cloud rolled in and it started to snow gently. In the end we started our descent from Conival back to the leveling we stopped at on the way up and rested.

Me at the summit of Ben More Assynt with Breabag in the background. 16/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Putting our head torches back on we started to descend back down the way we had walked up earlier in the day. We had actually managed to descend all awkward ground and had picked up the foot path on level ground when disaster struck! Vicks slipped on the ice and landed awkwardly in amongst some boulders, at the time all seemed well nothing more than a grazed elbow and probably some bruising. After administrating some pain killers we were on our way again and thankfully no more mishaps. Returning to the car we changed into clean clothes and packed the walking kit away into the car.

Ben More Assynt just as day light was fading. 16/01/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We both jumped into the Mountain Hardware Hotel and settled down to make supper under the warming light from the gas lantern. It did not take long to make supper and soon we had both satisfied our hunger and were both comfortable and warm enjoying a very fresh beer each whilst making plans for the following day. It was also a round this time that we came to realize that Vicks fall was a little more serious than we 1st thought. A closer inspection of Vicks elbow revealed it was quite badly grazed, bruised and starting to swell. Also when Vicks fell she had not noticed at the time that she landed on a rock underneath her ribs, this too was now starting to cause discomfort and a closer inspection revealed that indeed her ribs were badly bruised. Prescribing more pain killers and beer we settled down for an early night.  

Time to make some changes

To all that have been following my blog you may have noticed over the last month that I stopped posting blogs. This has mainly been due to me sustaining a minor injury to my upper thigh, although nothing serious it has rendered me unable to go out into the wilds of Scotland and either walk or climb. I have now almost recovered and hope to start blogging again very soon.

Some of you that have been following my blog may have also noticed some changes to the layout of my blog and you may have also noticed that the photographs are now copyrighted.

I am also changing the name of my blog to A J Thorley Mountaineering to those of you that have been following my blog the new web address is http://ajtmountaineering.blogspot.co.uk