No.6 Gully***, F Buttress. West Face, Aonach Dubh. 24th March 2013

West Face, Aonach Dubh. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Winter has certainly returned to Scotland and most of the United Kingdom. I must admit I was apprehensive when I received a call from Big B asking to climb. The weather forecast was not the most attractive I have ever seen, with snow flurries and wind speeds up to 60-80 mph, temperatures in between -26 to -30 and a high risk of avalanche this was going to be a day of Scottish gnarl at its finest!

Spring Lambs?  24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It was an unusually late start and Big B picked me up just after 8am. The roads were quiet as we made our way speedily up to Glen Coe. Arriving at the car park I was convinced opening the car door was not a good idea, as the wind was blowing so fierce it was rocking the car. Eventually we convinced each other that it was a good idea and we then set to the task of checking and sorting the climbing gear before packing the packs and making our way steeply up hill to the start of the days climb. (For grid refs and directions check Crypt Route IV,6***, Church Door Buttress. Coire Nam Beith, Bidean Nam Bian- West Top).

The frozen falls of Allt Coire nam Beitheach as we walked in. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The walk in is straight forward and to our surprise we spotted two spring lambs calling desperately for their mother. I hope the poor little chaps survive long enough to actually see spring! As we continued to walk in we noticed all the other climbers eager to get to the start of No.6 Gully. We just steadied away and discussed all the other options open to us just in case we ended up standing in line waiting to get onto the climb.

No. 6 Gully***, F Buttress. West Face, Aonach Dubh 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

As it turned out Big B's plan of a late start, turned out to be the right choice. As we approached the start of the 1st pitch all the other climbers were well ahead of us. We geared up in high spirits and chatted to two other climbers that only intended on doing the 1st pitch. They were also kind enough to let myself and Big B onto the route 1st, so we soloed the 1st pitch so the two other climbers did not have to wait on us in what can only be described as " not the best of days to be on the hill ".

Big B ascending the 3rd pitch in good Scottish conditions, No. 6 Gully***. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

I took the lead from the top of the 1st pitch on not the best of ice but none the less it was a good pitch and both myself and Big B enjoyed it. Big B took the next pitch which was almost like a chimney made from ice, this pitch was also very enjoyable. Swapping leads again, I lead the easy snow pitch to a cave under huge icicles just below the crux ice pitch. Here sheltered from the elements we ate and drank before Big B lead off.

The huge icicles at the 3rd belay stance, No. 6 Gully *** 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The crux pitch was excellent! Big B seemed to dispatch it with little effort. It was steep but the ice was excellent. We had a little bit of an advantage because the route was stepped out a little but not enough to take away the true character of the route. The pioneers that put up this route by cutting steps and hand holds into the ice must have their work cut out for them. Once I joined Big B at his stance I lead through on very thin ice, turf and rock to top out the route.

Big B taking in the views after topping out, No. 6 Gully***. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Big B soon joined me at the top of the route we shook hands just as the sun appeared for the 1st time this day and then looked around to form a plan to get us down to safety. There was an awful lot of snow drifts to negotiate but with careful route planning this was not an issue, we soon found a sound block to abseil from down to the safety of the coire floor. We packed away the climbing equipment and made with haste to the car and then onto to the Clachaig Inn for a celebration pint in front of roaring log burner! A fantastic way to end a fantastic day out, cheers Big B!

Me after topping out No. 6 Gully ***. 24/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)