The Vent II/III*, No1 Buttress. Coire An Lochain, Cairngorms. 5th March 2013

Coire An Lochain, Cairngorms. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

With the good winter climbing conditions continuing throughout the Highlands of Scotland the alarm clock was set for another early start. We had packed everything the night before and after a quick breakfast we picked up the bags, left the flat and went downstairs to jump into the car for the off. Today's destination was to be the Northern Cairngorms.

Me high up in The Vent II/III*, No 1 Buttress. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Usually the journey north from Glasgow to Aviemore is straight forward and can be done with plenty of time to arrive, walk out and then get two climbs done. But today with an incredible amount of success we managed to get stuck behind every slow moving vehicle on the motor way and just to add insult to injury we also managed to get stuck in the road works just for good measure.

Me tackling the crux of The Vent II/III*, No 1 Buttress. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving late at the Cairngorm Mountain Base Station we wasted no time in getting ready for the days adventures. The car park just like last week was busy and there was again a good vibe in the air as everybody readied themselves to make the most of the continuing settled conditions across Scotland. Once we had checked everything we were off to Coire An Lochain. (See Savage Slit S***, No4 Buttress. Coire An Lochain, Cairngorms.23rd July 2012 for grid refs and directions).

Me at the 2nd belay stance of The Vent II/III*, No 1 Buttress. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The walk in is straight forward and we did manage it in good time at a nice steady pace. We stopped below and to the left of the crags to consult the guide book. Our original plan had been to climb The Vent II/III* and then to drop back down into the coire and then climb Ewan Buttress III**, but arriving late this was not going to happen. Gearing up we settled on doing The Vent as it looked like there was two instructional groups on Ewan Buttress.

Me just leaving the 2nd belay stance of The Vent II/III*, No 1 Buttress. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Now that we were geared up, eaten and had a little to drink we made our way up and then traversed around the steep approach slopes to the start of The Vent, where we were greeted my members of the RAF on a winter climbing training day. I'm not sure how but they managed to get themselves into a proper pickle high up on the crux of the route and were having major difficulties in solving the problem. All we could do was wait for them to move on and keep close into the wall in an attempt to avoid the bombardment of ice that was falling from above us.

Me using a body belay to bring Vicks up to the plateau. The Vent II/III*, No 1 Buttress. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We waited until all the members of the RAF team had cleared the 1st pitch and I then started to lead off under a constant barrage of falling ice. It was quite a relief to get to the crux of the pitch as the ice was now missing me and flying straight over my head past me unfortunately down on to Vicks. For a grade II/III the crux of The Vent put up a good fight and is not to be under estimated. I soon got to grips with it and just as I was about to step over, again the barrage of falling ice from above started. I moved on as fast as I could and took a belay high above the crux to the right of the funnel away from the barrage of ice coming down from above.

The view across Coire An Lochain towards No 4 Buttress, you can just make out the line of Savage Slit S***/V,6**** 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

I called down to Vicks to start climbing, at 1st Vicks was moving quite quickly but then slowed down as she approached the crux. I could hear a lot choice language from down below and can only assume that Vicks was giving it her all to try and nail the crux. Eventually I heard a shout from below and it was Vicks asking me to take as she need a rest before continuing up to the belay stance. Soon a relieved Vicks joined me at the stance and after changing things over I continued up the steep exit slope of The Vent to the Plateau where I buried my axes tied in and took a body belay to bring Vicks up.

A pair of female Snow Buntings on the Cairngorm  Plateau. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)

By the time Vicks had joined me on the plateau the cloud had come down thicker so we decided whilst putting the gear away we would just take a slow wander down after we had drank and eaten the remainder of our lunches. It was a cracking route that we had just completed and it was thoroughly enjoyable. I am looking forward to my next adventure, where ever it may be. 

Coire An Lochain, shrouded in low cloud as we walked out. 05/03/2013 (Photo: A J Thorley)