Buachaille Etive Mor, via North Buttress. Glen Coe. 22nd September 2012

The weekend weather was looking good and I was contacted by a friend Herman who asked if I had any plans for the weekend. I responded by saying I was free and enquired if he would like to go to Glen Coe to do a scramble as it may be the last chance before the winter sets in. He agreed and asked if a friend could join us but unfortunately at the last minute his friend dropped out, so I invited Mary along for the weekend. We made our plans and Mary agreed to pick me up the following day and Herman decided to travel up alone as he was going to return to Glasgow the same day.

Buachaille Etive Mor (Stob Dearg) from the Kingshouse Hotel car park, Glen Coe. 22/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It was a beautiful morning when we met the following day at 10am in the Kingshouse  (NN259547) car park as Herman was unsure of where the car park for the Buachaille is. As we readied ourselves for the days adventure I discussed some of the options with Herman and Mary. They both agreed that they would like to do North Buttress M* a classic climb that takes the line of chimneys up the centre of the North Buttress and the second recorded route on the Buachaille. With the plan made we all jumped into Mary's car and drove the short distance along the A82 to the car parks (NN221563) for the Buachaille. Mary had a little difficulty in parking as the car park was already very busy.

Creise from the Kingshouse Hotel car park, Glen Coe. 22/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The approach to North Buttress is straight forward, follow the track south and cross the bridge (NN221561), continue on the well made foot path passing Lagangarbh (NN221559). When the path forks (NN222557) take the path on the left. This is the climbers path it is well defined and easy to follow. Continue on this path until a buttress with two obvious huge boulders at its base comes into view, this is the beginning of North Buttress. The foot path crosses Great Gully (NN227548), just after Great Gully another faint climbers path leaves the main path on the right. This is the approach to North Buttress (NN228548).

A cheeky little robin, Kingshouse Hotel car park, Glen Coe. 22/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

To start the scramble is awkward due to the erosion at the base of the buttress, it is easier to move up right until an obvious ramp leads up and left onto the buttress itself. From this point it is nothing more than a hill walk to reach the actual base of the scramble. Zig zag your way up the buttress until you come to a very steep wall split by a series of obvious chimneys in the centre.

Beinn a Chrulaiste from Stob Dearg, Glen Coe. 22/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

At this point we sat down to have a bite to eat and take in the views over Rannoch Moor. It was turning out to be a stunning day with views as far as the eye could see. Compared to Curved Ridge which had people queueing to get onto it and so did Agags Groove, there was not another soul on North Buttress. We had magnificent views and the piece and quiet to enjoy them. Even though the sun was shining North Buttress was in the shade making quite chilly and the rock was cold on the hands.

North Buttress, Buachaille Etive Mor. Glen Coe. 22/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once we had all enjoyed a bite to eat we geared up and I talked Herman and Mary through the various shouts that we would use so that we could communicate easily. I began to ascend the first pitch which is an easy enjoyable wide chimney. At the top it steps back and there is a huge obvious spike that serves as a good belay. I brought Herman and Mary up together, they ascended the 1st section easily and were keen to keep moving they were really enjoying the experience.

Herman & Mary on North Buttress, Buachaille Etive More. Glen Coe. 22/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Making sure that Herman and Mary were both tied in securely to the belay stance I started the second pitch. It is very similar to the first pitch. A wide chimney with scope to climb it anywhere. It is lose in places and care must be taken with the rock. At the top of the second pitch the route steps back again and another good block belay can be utilised. Herman and Mary, both made short work of this pitch as well and soon joined me at the belay stance. At this point we were starting to get high up on the buttress. We took the time to enjoy the views from our perch.

Herman & Mary on North Buttress, Buachaille Etive More. Glen Coe. 22/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The third pitch is the crux of the route and can be overcome in many different ways. The easiest way is to start the chimney on the left until an awkward move up and right can be made. Continue up the right hand side of the chimney until it is possible to step right to a good obvious belay ledge. Or continue with difficulty straight up the system of chimneys. It is also possible to move left on to delicate slabs. I would not advise either of these options unless you have considerable mountaineering experience. We took the easiest line and soon all three of us were at the belay stance. Herman and Mary were both in high spirits and were really enjoying the experience.

Rannoch Moor from Stob Dearg, Glen Coe. 22/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

From the top of the third pitch I traversed up and right before making a steady rising traverse left. It is possible to move just about anywhere giving the leader huge scope for variation. At the top of the fourth pitch again the route steps back and the angle eases. Again Herman and Mary quickly overcame this pitch and soon joined me on the wide ledge. At this point we put away the ropes but left our harnesses on.

The first snow, Ben Nevis & Carn Mor Dearg from Stob Dearg. Glen Coe. 22/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Before moving on we had another bite to eat and spent some time taking in the spectacular views. North Buttress really does give commanding views across Rannoch Moor. I took both Herman and Mary over to the left which is the top of North Buttress East Face. From this point it is possible to look over to Curved Ridge, Crowberry Ridge and Crowberry Tower that were all bustling with climbers making the most of the day and fantastic weather. I think both Herman and Mary were overwhelmed by the scale of the Buachaille and its many different buttresses and gullies.

The Bidean nam Bian Massif. Left-Right, Stob Coire Sgreardiach, Bidean nam Bian & Stob Coire nan Lochan. Glen Coe. 22/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We continued up the buttress to the summit of Stob Dearg (NN222542). It is possible to move just about anywhere, this section of the scramble is by no means technical but it is good fun and very pleasant. We all arrived at the summit to be greeted by amazing views of Glen Coe in all directions. In the distance a snow capped Ben Nevis could be clearly seen with the amazing sweeping ridge of Carn Mor Dearg. I pointed out all the mountains to Herman and Mary, before enjoying the rest of my lunch and taking in the spectacular views all around us.

Buachaille Etive Mor, Stob na Doire, Stob Coire Altruim & Stob na Broige. Glen Coe. 22/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

To descend we used what is known as the tourist path. From the summit of Stob Dearg an obvious path leads steadily downhill in a south westerly direction to a large cairn at the bealach (NN216541). At this point easy scrambling down eroded rocks in a northerly direction leads to a well made foot path that steadily winds its way down Coire na Tulaich (NN216544) back to the car park. Returning to the car park we jumped into the car and returned to the Kings House Hotel.

Buachaille Etive Beag from Lagangarbh, Glen Coe. 22/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Myself and Mary said our goodbyes to Herman who had a huge smile on his face. I think both Herman and Mary really enjoyed the days adventure. It was a shame that Herman could not join us for a celebration and well earned pint. We waved good bye to Herman and then went to pitch the tents before enjoying a pint to celebrate the days success.