Polney Crag & Ivy Buttress, Craig A Barns. Dunkeld. 11th September 2012

I have climbed at Craig A Barns numerous times and find it to be a pleasant venue with a great outlook over Dunkeld. It has a sense of being a true mountain crag and is yet only minutes from the road side. There is a good range of climbs spread over all the crags here with something for everybody regardless of ability. It is popular and on a busy day you may need to wait in line to get on a climb, but its popularity gives this crag a real positive buzz.

Me on Cuticle Crack S** after overcoming the initial overhanging crux, Polney Crag. Craig A Barns, Dunkeld 11/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

To get to Craig A Barns from Glasgow take the A80 north and then onto the A9, passing Perth then onto Dunkeld. Turn off for Dunkeld (026 426), it is worth stopping off in Dunkeld to visit The Country Bakery, their food is excellent and will keep even the keenest of climbers going for the day. There are also well maintained public conveniences in Dunkeld. Continue through Dunkeld to the A923 signposted Blairgowrie and turn left. Pass the Polney Loch (014 431) and park (010 430) on the grass verge by a rusty old blue bin. Drive slowly as the bin may be obscured by branches from the trees and can easily be missed. From here a faint footpath winds steeply uphill to emerge directly in front of Hairy Gully at Polney Crag (010 431).

Hairy Gully the descent from Polney Crag, Craig A Barns. Dunkeld 11/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We arrived just after 11am and geared up at our usual spot just in front of Hairy Gully. The sun was shining but the wind was blowing fiercely, luckily Craig A Barns is sheltered by the surrounding woodland. Our 1st climb was Cuticle Crack S** just left of Hairy Gully. Its a good climb with a strenuous start but well protected by a bomber thread. Once over the overhang continue up the crack line until it is possible to step right and easier climbing leads to a good block belay at the top. To descend scramble down to the top of hairy gully and use the in situ belay to abseil back down, left when looking out from the top of the crag. Take care as Hairy Gully is loose in places.

Me high up on Ivy Corner VS 4b*, Ivy Buttress. Craig A Barns, Dunkeld 11/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Moving further along the crag we then climbed Recess Route VD* and Holly Tree Groove VD**. Both excellent climbs and good value for the grade. Recess Route offers good climbing but with spaced protection, Holly Tree Groove is awkward to start but soon eases giving a pleasant route. Both finish left up the obvious chimney.

Me starting Consolation Corner VD*, Ivy Buttress. Craig A Barns, Dunkeld 11/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

During lunch we noticed a few spots of rain and decided to move around the crag to Ivy Buttress which is very sheltered from the weather. Ivy Crack VS 4b* was the 1st route we did on this buttress. Its awkward to start and involves bridging as well as lay backing to gain the crack. Easier climbing leads to the imposing headwall which is tricky to overcome. There is a good hand hold high up in the centre of the wall just when you need it. Belay at the tree at the top of the climb it is awkward to arrange and take care with your ropes there is very limited space on the ledge. To descend use the in situ belay to abseil back down the way you just climbed up.

Me just below the huge flake on Kestrel Crack S*, Polney Crag. Craig A Barns, Dunkeld 11/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Consolation Corner VD* was the next route to be climbed. The climbing is very pleasant up to the tree and possible belay, beyond this the rock becomes very over grown and broken in places. We continued right to the top of this route with the intention of going to Upper Buttress to climb Hogg's Hind Quarters VD**. On our way up we bumped into two other climbers on their way back down and after a brief chat they persuaded us not to bother. The wind was catching the upper section of the buttress making it virtually impossible to climb.

The views from Polney Crag, Craig A Barns, Dunkeld. 11/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

On the scramble back down we decided to finish the day with the one of the classics of Polney Crag, Kestrel Crack S*. Its a pleasant route 1st ascending a pleasant slab to a traverse ledge which has real feeling of exposure. Traverse rightwards to gain a huge flake, large cams and hexes are useful here make sure they are well extended though. Ascend the flake, step right and continue to an obvious belay just below a left facing corner. The corner above is easy to overcome with only one awkward move at the top. Possibly my favourite climb at this crag and great way to end a great days climbing.