Forth Quarry - Cambusbarron, Stirling & Auchinstarry Quarry, Kilsyth. 8th September 2012

I 1st visited Forth Quarry last year and it was not the best of experiences. I attempted to climb Here Come The Mini Monks S 4c. I managed to get around three metres off the ground before I pulled a huge flake off and hit the ground. It was not a pleasant landing either but luckily nothing more than bruises and a dinted ego. I then decided to have a go at Ramplin S and like before hit the ground again this time holding a block in my right hand. Like before luckily nothing more than bruises. After some choice language we called it quits and decided to leave. When we arrived back at the car park we bumped into my friend Iain who promptly persuaded me to return to the quarry and have another go. I did and spent a successful afternoon enjoying some good climbing without any further mishaps.

Me and Iain on Another One Bites the Dust E1 5b*, Fourth Quarry. Cambusbarron 08/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

To get to Fourth Quarry from Glasgow take the A80 north towards Stirling and turn off at junction 10, A84 signposted Crianlarich and go right around the roundabout. Continue south as if going into Stirling and then turn right onto the A811 which takes you over the motor way. Just after the motor way turn left onto a single track road that will take you past some warehouse flats and then into Cambusbarron village (774 692). Go straight through the village and turn right and after 200 metres you should reach Quarry Road. Turn left and park at the end of the road by the information boards (771 922). Walk past the barrier and follow the track around to your left, Fourth Quarry (770 920) should come into view straight ahead around 10 minutes walk.

Me on Malky the Alky E1 5b*, Fourth Quarry. Cambusbarron 08/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We arrived at the quarry car park and met up with Iain and all three of us walked in together. I was keen to get on and climb and went straight for a combination of climbs. Another One Bites The Dust E1 5b* to the half way ledge and then onto Malky The Alky E1 5b*. A really enjoyable climb on good rock. To descend from the top it is easier to leave a sling around a tree and abseil down with care. Once back down a friend of Iain's arrived and he then proceeded to take him through the SPA rope work scenarios. Myself and Mary continued to climb and this time Here Come The Mini Monks S 4c went without incident quickly followed by Ramplin S, also without incident. I was quite relaxed and enjoying the climbing. For a quarry that is littered with all sorts of debris it is actually a very pleasant place to climb and the views towards the hills are easy on the eye. Time flew by and in what seemed like no time at all it was late afternoon and time to leave. We said our goodbyes at the car park and went our separate ways. 

Car Park Area, Auchinstarry Quarry. Kilsyth 08/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

On the way home I suggested to Mary that we call in at Auchinstarry Quarry and get the most from the day. After all the sun was still shining and it is only a 5 minute detour. Mary agreed and we continued south on the A80 turning off for Kilsyth (723 781). Auchinstarry Quarry (725 764) is located on the south of Kilsyth and the parking is directly below it making it very convenient for the climber.

Mary on Scream S 4b, Car Park Area. Auchinstarry Quarry. Kilsyth 08/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

This was to be my 1st visit to this quarry since the local authority has carried out stabilisation works and improved access to the Car Park Area. Over the years this quarry has been subject to many access problems due to its close proximity to a busy road. I'm not utterly convinced that the latest works have improved the stability of the rock. The area at the top of the Car Park Area is now loose and the grass seed has not really taken hold yet. There is already obvious signs of erosion and it would be interesting to see if anything remains at the top after winter especially if it turns out to be a wet winter. On the plus side the climbs that were deemed out of bounds and fenced off are now accessible. For more information on stabilisation works and access to Auchinstarry Quarry visit the MCofS website.

The view across the water from Trundle Slab Area, Auchinstarry Quarry. Kilsyth 08/09/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Not sure what the top outs were like since the works have been completed I went for Scream S 4b, a pleasant climb to the right of the smooth slab in the centre of the main wall in the Car Park Area. As it turned out the recent works have not affected this route. From the top of the Car Park Area we then walked around to the descent that takes you down into the back of the quarry where the best climbing is. The scramble down is awkward and if visiting for the 1st time I would advise going with someone who knows the quarry well. Once down we walked and scrambled our way around to the Trundle Slab Area. Trundle VS 4c was the route of choice and is the quarry classic at this grade. Its a very pleasant climb and was a fitting way to end an enjoyable day out.