The Cairngorms is an area of Scotland that I have been visiting for some time now and the intention of this trip was to climb in Garbh Choire. Squareface VD**** on Squareface Buttress and Cumming-Crofton Route S*** on the mighty Mitre Ridge are both climbs that I have been wanting to do for a long time. The forecasts were reasonable, so we loaded the car and set off.
We left Glasgow early evening around 7pm Saturday and took the A80 onto the A9 to Perth, then onto the A93 to Blairgowrie, pass the Glenshee Ski Centre (138 782), and finally onto Glen Clunie to a nice area by the road where you can free camp (151 874). As normal the customary packed lunch for the drive went down well and we arrived at our destination just as darkness was starting to fall around 9:30pm. It was chilly and we quickly pitched the tent and settled in for the night.
Sunday morning the alarm went off at 6am and reluctantly we motivated ourselves and began the task of crawling out of our lovely warm sleeping bags and started to get dressed. It was a beautiful morning and the sun was shining, but that all to familiar sensation had started... The midges were out to play in force and were biting. We quickly decided to pack up, move on and have breakfast at the start of our walk into Garbh Choire.
Whilst we were packing up I started to notice all the other tents in the area and alarmingly the rubbish. In some areas huge heaps of it containing broken chairs, tables, remains of tents, carrier bags of rubbish and in other areas it was spread all over with no attempt what so ever to bag it up. Good people have worked hard to secure our rights to free camp in Scotland and if this misuse of these access laws continues they will be removed and free camping will be banned. Free camping has already been banned in some areas of Scotland and action is being taken to ban it in other areas. Please take your rubbish home with you. For further information see MCofS website.
It is a short drive from where we were camped to where we wanted to start our walk in to Garbh Choire. Continue on the A93 to Braemar (151 914), turn left and take the minor road to Linn of Dee. Continue on this road until it ends at Linn of Quoich. We parked sensitively just beyond a cattle grid (112 904).
Stepping out the car it was a relief to us to know there was a good breeze blowing. We found a sheltered spot and put the kettle on whilst we started to pack up our kit. We decided the previous evening rather than travel light and try to do it in a day that we would take our camping gear and stay out for the night. After all Garbh Choire is one of the remotest climbing venues in Scotland and we intended to get the most of this adventure. We double checked that we had everything and I spoke to my mum and left a detailed route with her and estimations of times just in case something went wrong. You can also leave route plans with the local Police and Youth Hostels. Off we went.
The walk in to Garbh Choire is long and not the most interesting. At first the walking is easy going on a well made land rover track through some ancient Caledonian pine forest. We did manage to spot red squirrels and other wildlife. Eventually the forest peatters out about 1km just before the confluence of Quoich Water and Allt an Dubh-Ghlinne (080 947). Cross the river here, the OS map shows a 4 x 4 track heading north up the hillside from this point it no longer exists. It soon fades to a well made footpath. The National Trust for Scotland managed to restore the area back to its natural state. This well made footpath is obvious and rises gently passing a shelter (075 972) and continues directly to the North Top of Beinn a' Bhuird (092 006). From The North Top of Beinn a' Bhuird we passed over 3 unnamed tops (101 014, 105 013, 107 010), finally taking a baring to Squareface Buttress (111 012). Looking down onto Squareface Buttress, on the left is a obvious grassy rake that descends right down to the floor of Garbh Choire. We used this descent, it is steep in places and quite tricky carrying heavy loads. All in all it took us around 6 hours.
Once down onto the floor of Garbh Choire (107 015) we found a nice spot for the tent (112 015) and pitched it. Not far away was a small running stream so we unpacked the cooking equipment and used our cups to drink from the stream. I located a suitable dining table and bench (large rocks) and gathered small rocks to make a stone circle in which to place the stove. Soon we settled down with a hot brew and took in our surroundings whilst flicking through the climbing guide.
During the walk in we were treated to some very pleasant sunshine and spectacular views in all directions. It was not until we reached the North Top of Beinn a' Bhuird that things started to change. The warm breeze turned cold and started to strengthen, the cloud came down. From where we were sitting looking up to Squareface Buttress it had disappeared into the cloud. Things were not looking good, but ever the optimist I started to sort the climbing gear in the hope the cloud would lift. But it didn't, in fact it started to rain. Looking at our watches it was only 3pm so we decided to have an afternoon nap in the hope things would improve later that evening.
We woke around 4pm to the sound of the tent flapping in the wind, the wind speed had increased dramatically. We got out the tent and looked around. The cloud had lifted and we could see all around the Choire. The wind sounded fierce, we could hear it coming over the tops and then rushing into the Choire and eventually battering us. We decided not to climb, it was too risky with such a strong wind blowing in such a remote place. In the end we walked around the Choire and photographed all the buttresses so I could study them when we got home and plan the return trip.
Returning to the tent we settled down in our outdoor kitchen, wrapped up warm and put dinner on. This evening's meal was to be pasta, spicy sausage mixed with minestrone soup. It went down a treat and warmed us up nicely. Just as we finished, the rain started again. We cleaned the dishes, packed everything into the tent and settled down for the night. During the night the wind speed continued to increase and the sound of it at times was deafening. We were safe, wrapped up nice and snug in our down bags.
Monday morning arrived and I can't recall sleeping. The weather during the night was horrendous and not only did the wind increase it had also started to rain and was still raining. It's mornings like this that make it hard to leave the comfort of your sleeping bag. In the end I got up, braved the weather and put the kettle on. The rain was not as bad as it sounded but the wind speed was mental! Vicks joined me and over a hot brew we packed up.
Shouldering our packs we started a rising traverse from where we were camped up to The Sneck (118 010) the bealach in between Beinn a' Bhuird and Leabaidh an Daimh Bhuidhe. The going was tough, we were tired from our restless night. The terrain was steep, wet and the wind was not helping at all. Upon arrival at The Sneck we were almost taken off our feet by the wind, the ground where we had camped and just covered was infact sheltered now we were exposed to the full force of the rain and wind.
Kneeling down we consulted the map and decided to go for the summit of Leabaidh an Daimh Bhuide. We took our packs off and wedged them in between rocks. The going was tough even without our packs and it was hard maintaining barings with a wind constantly blowing us off course. It took longer than expected to find the 1st peak (126 013), but once there we knew we could take a good baring to the true summit. Arriving at the true summit of Leabaidh an Daimh Bhuidhe (132 018) we quickly munched biscuits that we had in our pockets, reversed the baring and headed off back to the packs.
By the time we returned to the packs we were soaked, we ate some more and had a good drink of water. Consulting the map again we agreed just to descend from The Sneck into Gleann an t-Slugain and get out of the weather. Shouldering our now soaked packs, we set a slow steady pace and trudged off down into Gleann an t-Slugain passing the ruins of Gleann an t-Slugain lodge (119 952). The walk out was relentless and just seemed to go on and on and on. Eventually we reached the forest just north of Braemar and in its shelter we rested and ate where the 4 x 4 tracks cross over (161 933).
Revitalised we stripped off our waterproofs as the weather was improving and continued our walk out. Passing through the next junction in the 4 x 4 tracks (157 934), onto Inverchadlick Cottage (149 926), Allanmore (138 919) and returning back to where the car was parked (112 904) at around 3pm. We slumped the packs at the side of the car relieved to be down. Vicks unlocked the car and dug out the spare dry clothes. I unpacked my pack, retrieved the stove and put the kettle on. Sitting in the car sipping our hot brews and in nice dry clothes we soon warmed up.
Vicks suggested that we look through the pictures. At this point disaster struck! We realised that somewhere on the walk out we had lost the camera. I remembered using it last to photograph the beehives at approximately 134 919. I jogged back along the track passing a group of four and asked if they had seen it, they had not. Returning to where I last used it, it was not there. Jogging back to the car I passed the group of four again, they asked if I found it. "No" was my answer, but they recalled a man with two boys on mountain bikes heading in the direction of where I last used my camera. I can only assume that they picked it up and will hopefully return it to the Police or Rangers post soon.
This was not the adventure that I had planned, but it was a good adventure in the end and come next summer I will be heading out to Garb Choire again. I'm very much looking forward to it.
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