D Gully Buttress D/S*, North-East Face. Buachaille Etive Mor, Glen Coe. 9th August 2012

Great Gully, Buachaille Etive Mor. Glencoe 09/08/2012 (Photo:  A J Thorley)

We spent the previous evening camped at the Kingshouse Hotel (259 546) on Rannoch Moor. It was busy with West Highland Way walkers. They too must have been making the most of all the good weather as well. Over a pint in the Kingshouse Iain made arrangements for friends of his to join us the following day for a climb on Buachaille Etive Mor. We made a loose plan to either climb Central Buttress, via North Face Route S** or D Gully Buttress D/S* and then continue to the summit either by Curved Ridge or Rannoch Wall.

D Gully Buttress Left, Curved Ridge & Rannoch Wall Centre. East Face, North Buttress right. Buachaille Etive Mor, Glencoe 09/08/2012 (Photo:  A J Thorley)

There was no rush to get up we were not going to meet Iain's friends until 10am. We emerged from our sleeping bags around 9ish had a quick brew with breakfast, packed our tents away and drove down the road to the Glencoe Visitor Centre (112 575) to use the facilities and have a quick wash.

Iain coming up the 1st pitch of D Gully Buttress D/S*, North-East face, Buachaille Etive Mor 09/08/2012    (Photo:  A J Thorley)

(Please note the Kingshouse Hotel does not allow campers to use their facilities unless you are a paying guest. Please do not use the surrounding area as a toilet or rubbish bin. Take your rubbish with you and use the facilities at Glencoe Visitor Centre). Before returning to the car park for Buchaille Etive Mor to meet Iain's friends.

Thumbs up from Rab on the 1st pitch of D Gully Buttress D/S* North-East Face, Buachaille Etive Mor 09/08/2012 (Photo:  A J Thorley)

Rab and his sister Claire were already there and we soon made a plan to climb D Gully Buttress D/S*. This was to be Rab & Claire's 1st multi-pitch climb on Buchaille Etive Mor. We agreed with Rab & Claire's grandparents that we would try our best to return the car park for 6pm that day. With our rucksacks packed we were off.

Rannoch Moor 09/08/2012 (Photo:  A J Thorley)

The approach to D Gully Buttress is straight forward, from the car park (221 563) take the well worn path south and cross the bridge over the River Coupall. Pass Lagangarbh (221 559) and when the path forks (222 558) take the left path and contour around the base of the cliffs. Cross over Great Gully and continue on the path passing the water worn slabs, until you reach a small cairn.

Iain helping Rab with his belay, D Gully Buttress D/S*. North East Face, Buchaille Etive Mor 09/08/2012

Looking up you should see D Gully Buttress (227 545) in front of you. To the left, Central Buttress and to the right Curved Ridge with Rannoch Wall in the back ground. Scramble up easy rocks to the base of the buttress. The heavy rain over the last week has washed a lot of the scree down, so some of the paths are quite hard to find.

The Kingshouse Hotel, Rannoch Moor 09/08/2012 (Photo:  A J Thorley)

The 1st two pitches are enjoyable moderate scrambling, the 3rd pitch has a tricky start but is well protected and the difficulties soon ease. The 4th pitch is steep and can be climbed almost anywhere at S, the protection is spaced but good. Finally the 5th pitch, which has little bit of everything is thoroughly enjoyable.

Rab leading up the 4th pitch of D Gully Buttress. North-East Face, Buachaille Etive Mor 09/08/2012 (Photo:  A J Thorley)

We topped out mid afternoon around 3pm to glorious sunshine and spectacular views. From our perch we could see right across the vast expanse of Rannoch Moor to Schiallion (713 547). Also right into the magnificent Grey Corries and Mammores. We all relaxed, ate lunch and sorted the climbing equipment before packing it back in our rucksacks.

Claire, Rab's sister the happy belayer, D Gully Buttress D/S*. North-East Face, Buachaille Etive Mor 09/08/2012

(Photo:  A J Thorley)

We then scrambled to the top of  D Gully Buttress and then traversed over to Curved Ridge, descended Curved Ridge to the luncheon spot and  then dropped down below Rannoch Wall and continued our traverse to the lower section of North Buttress. Finally descending North Buttress back to the path and slowly walked back to the car for 5:30pm.

The mighty Rannoch Wall, Buachaille Etive Mor 09/08/2012 (Photo:  A J Thorley)

It was a fantastic day out and fantastic weather. I hope Rab and Claire enjoyed the mixture of the days climbing and scrambling. Hopefully it will inspire them to go out and discover more of the mountains in the future.

Rab & Claire scrambling across the base of North-East Buttress on our descent. Buachaille Etive Mor 09/08/2012

(Photo:  A J Thorley)