Central Buttress, Tryfan. Pinnacle Rib Route D** 31st July 2012

Looking down to the campsite from the North East Face of Tryfan 31/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The alarm went off early and we woke to glorious sunshine. Soon we were sitting at the picnic bench enjoying coffee and breakfast.

Full of excitement I started to check and pack the climbing equipment ready for the days adventure. I noticed two other climbers on the opposite side of the campsite to us doing the same thing. They must of had the same idea as us, up early and off to beat the weather.

The start of The Heather Terrace, you can just see the weather creeping in. Tryfan 31/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The previous evening we decided we were going to attempt either Grooved Arete VD*** on The North Buttress, Arete Climb S** or Gashed Crag VD*** on the South Buttress of Tryfan. All these climbs are approached from The Heather Terrace.

Me starting the 1st pitch, Pinnacle Rib Route D**. Central Buttress, Tryfan 31/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We started our approach from the campsite (673 604). The footpath takes you around the back of the farm house and then winds up past Tryfan Bach (672 601) to meet a fence high up on the hillside. We continued to follow the path along side the fence until it forks at 667 599. Taking the left foot path we were soon on the climbers path that runs along The Heather Terrace.

Me on the crux of the 1st pitch, Pinnacle Rib Route D**. Central Buttress, Tryfan 31/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Upon arrival on The Heather Terrace we realised almost immediately that the weather was changing for the worse. The forecast was wrong and the weather was closing in much sooner than we had hoped for. We sat down beside the large boulder that sits on Heather Terrace in between North Gully and Little Gully. Assessing the situation we opted for a much easier route and settled on Pinnacle Rib Route D*, Central Buttress of Tryfan (665 594).

Locating the start of the climb was very easy, somebody has scratched PRR into the rock at the starting point. It did not take long to get geared up and to make a start.

The view from the 2nd belay stance. The weather had come in quicker than expected, Pinnacle Rib Roue D**. Central Buttress, Tryfan 31/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The rain was starting, just a drop here and there occasionally. For some reason it was making me quite nervous, not sure why. I have climbed much harder routes in the past in far worse conditions. Maybe it was the passer bys watching me struggle with the crux of the 1st pitch. Either way I was glad to complete the 1st pitch and get settled down out of sight at the belay stance and called to Vicks to start climbing.

Me high up on the 3rd pitch of Pinnacle Rib Route D**, Central Buttress. Tryfan 31/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

I could see looking south that the weather was continuing to deteriorate. With the rain getting heavier we settled down to the task ahead and made good progress on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th pitch. Although soaked we arrived at The Pinnacle in good spirits and knowing we had only 2 pitches left to go.


Unfortunately our situation had now become very serious, we were now exposed to the strong winds and heavy rain. Undeterred I continued with caution and soon overcame the final pitch. With increased exposure to the weather I opted for the safest option of pitching the last section, it's normally nothing more than a straight forward easy scramble. Finally we were on the path that comes up from Little Gully. We took coils and walked the final section to Adam & Eve on the summit of Tryfan (664 594).

The weather was starting to get quite serious now, heavy rain and increasing winds. 3rd belay stance, Pinnacle Rib Route D**. Central Buttress, Tryfan 31/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Relieved to be on the summit of Tryfan, we sheltered behind Adam & Eve where two hillwalkers had been watching our ascent. It was a good spot nice and sheltered. We stripped off our climbing equipment, changed back into our approach shoes and leaving the gear in a heap tucked into a well deserved lunch.


Re-energised we packed our gear, took our summit photos and started our descent from the summit of Tryfan. Although not marked on the map there is a foot path directly from the summit. It is steep at first but soon eases.

Me starting the 4th Pitch, Pinnacle Rib Route D**. Central Buttress, Tryfan 31/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We had not descended more than 100m, when I heard something. Taking my hood down so I could hear better, I listened carefully. At first I thought it was the wind, then clearly I heard it again... "Help!" followed by 3 short blasts of a whistle. The wind picked up again, I asked Vicks to take her hood down and we both listened again. The wind dropped, again "Help!" followed by 3 short blasts of a whistle.Turning to Vicks, I asked her to descend quickly but carefully and raise the alarm.

Rather than continue my descent I traversed south around Tryfan to see if I could locate the source of the cries for help. I zig-zagged as fast as possible covering an area of over half a kilometre squared in minutes. I could still hear the cries for help but could not locate where it was coming from.

A military chinook came into Cwn Bochlwyd and landed at the head of Nant Bochlwyd. The cries for help became louder and more frantic. It soon became obvious it was not there to help and it took off, soon disappearing into the distance.

Me at The Pinnacle, Pinnacle Rib Route D**. Central Buttress, Tryfan 31/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

My heart sank, I could still hear the cries for help and they sounded more desperate than ever. Realising the cries were not coming from Tryfan, again my heart sank. I had just remembered the two climbers from earlier this morning. Dropping to my knees I took off my back pack and retrieved the climbing guide. Opening the guide there is a good topo of the whole area and I soon realised the cries must be coming from The Main Cliff of Glyder Fach.

I dropped down from Tryfan at some speed (I used to fell run) towards Llyn Bochlwyd, now I could clearly hear the cries for help. Standing at the south end of Llyn Bochlwyd I could see the cliffs of Glyder Fach but could still not see who was shouting for help. The adrenalin was pumping and I began to sprint up the hillside.

Soon I arrived just below where the cries were coming from. I shouted up and was relieved to hear, "It's alright mate we're sorted. MRT are on the way". I continued my ascent and soon joined them at the base of a gully.

Me making a dash for the summit, Pinnacle Ridge Route D**. Central Buttress, Tryfan 31/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Looking up I could see a guy high up in the gully pale and clearly shaken. I asked if he was ok, he nodded. Below him another guy was tied off, he said he was ok. I looked behind me to the another man, he looked to the floor then back to me. The remains of another man were lying precariously close to the edge. He had placed a rope around him and was now tying him off to a spike on the wall.

Looking around again it became obvious that this man had fallen a huge distance. There was blood and all sorts going up the gully. Scattered contents from his ruck sack strewn around as well. It all of a sudden became very obvious he was not alive.

I couldn't think of anything else to do except introduce myself, the others introduced themselves. We chatted for a little while and slowly we all calmed down. I was exhausted and took a drink of water from the bottle in my bag before handing it to another one of the men. This was a very bad situation, the weather was getting worse. I took out my harness and put it on.

It turned out that two of the men were the climbers from this morning and they had the same idea as us, but like us were hit earlier than expected by the weather. The man high up was a hillwalker who had lost his baring whilst trying to descend Glyder Fach, his mate unforunately had slipped, lost his balanced and tumbled down the gully head first. He had then descended the gully looking for his mate, but soon realised he was stuck just above the body of his mate and started to shout out for help. Luckily the two climbers were traversing off their route, crossed the gully and then managed to abseil down to the scene and secure the surviving hillwalker.

Vicks at the summit of Tryfan with Adam & Eve 31/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We continued making small talk trying to distract ourselves from the situation. A phone rang, it was MRT saying it would be an hour before a helicopter could get to us. Looking around I could see the survivors rucksack I unpacked it, removed a tent flysheet and covered the corpse with the help of one of the climbers. We then removed all of the clothing from the rucksack and our rucksacks and split it four ways, then we wrapped up best we could. It was going to get cold, and we knew it.

MRT continued to call every 15 minutes to re-access the situation and make sure we were all ok.

Eventually we received the call to say there were coming in on foot, the helicopter had been called to another incident elsewhere. They said it would take them at least an hour to reach us. We put ourselves to work securing fixed ropes to aid MRT getting to us and set up several belays for their use. I set up an abseil, abseiled down and met MRT where the Chinook landed earlier, helped MRT locate the others and quickly descended to a waiting Land Rover at Idwal Cottage (649 603). I was greeted by a relieved Vicks and Pauline of MRT, who quickly drove me to the warmth of the MRT base 674 607.

Once at the MRT base I quickly removed my drenched clothing and wrapped up in clean, dry warm towels. It was not long before MRT were supplying me with an endless supply of hot sugary tea.

Me at the summit of Tryfan with Adam & Eve 31/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We all heard the helicopter land and soon the others joined me and Vicks. Not much was said, we shook hands made endless cups of tea and MRT treated us to a much appreciated hotdog, bacon and baked bean butty.

The police arrived, we left our details and then walked back to the campsite to shower and change. I was still feeling the cold and suggested to Vicks we go the the pub. We tapped on the tent of the other two climbers and asked if they fancied a pint. The response was "Too fucking right mate!"

The army Chinook Helicopter 31/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)