The Aonach Eagach Ridge (Meall Dearg & Sgorr nam Fiannaidh), Glen Coe. 26th August 2012

Gearr Aonach & Aonach Dubh, Glen  Coe 26/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)   

The Aonach Eagach Ridge is a ridge walk that  I have now completed on numerous occasions, summer and winter. Its one the classics of the Scottish Highlands and a must do for most hillwalkers, especially those intent on completing a round of munros. Regardless to the amount times I have completed it, it still holds as much interest now as it did when I 1st completed it.

Looking west on our ascent. Loch Achtriochtan with Meall Mor in the background, Glen Coe 26/08/2012
  (Photo: A J Thorley)

So I was very excited when a friend Mary got in touch asking if I would take her over the Aonach Eagach, the following day. I wasted no time in agreeing and we made arrangements. The following day Mary picked me up at 8.30 in Glasgow, there was no rush to get to Glen Coe as the weather forecast was  for the weather to start clearing from 10am. We set off full of excitement and in high spirits. It was still raining when we left Glasgow, but the weather did start to improve the further north we travelled.

Blackwater Resevoir from Am Bocach, Glen Coe 26/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

As we drove through Glen Coe it was obvious that it was going to be a busy day. I would imagine most folk had the same idea as us and were out to make the most of the good weather that was forecast for the day. Passing the Kings House Hotel there was already a steady stream of West Highland Way walkers on their way to the Devil's Staircase. The car parks for Buachaille Etive Mor were buzzing with walkers and climbers getting ready for their day. The Beehive car park was also full to the brim with folk getting ready to go up onto Buachaille Etive Beag. We were lucky and just managed to sneak into the last parking place just below the start of the Aonach Eagach Ridge (175 566).

Mary on Am Bodach, Aonach Eagach Ridge. With the Mammores in the background, Glen Coe. 26/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Arriving at the car park we jumped out of the car and stretched our legs. Then started to sort our stuff whilst chatting to other walkers getting themselves ready. There was a genuine buzz in the air as everybody hurried to ready themselves to make a start. The weather also looked to be improving as predicted. The cloud was still down to around 850m, but it was bright and warm.

Me, Am Bodach in the background. Aonach Eagach Ridge, Glen Coe 26/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Our ascent started from the car park (175 566), it is steep and a stern warm up. There is a well made footpath that rises and zigzags its way up the hillside to the summit of Am Bodach (168 580) a munro top at the start of the Aonach Eagach. We took our time, meandered along at a gentle pace stopping to take in the views and pictures. The higher we climbed the more the weather improved.

Looking east from Meall Dearg to Am Bodach, Aonach Eagach Ridge, Glen Coe 26/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Finally we arrived at the summit of Am Bodach and I suggested to Mary we should have an extended lunch to allow the other walkers to get ahead of us. Mary agreed and whilst munching away and relaxing, I pointed out all the other hills in the distance that we could see. The views were fantastic, although the cloud level was around 1000m we could still see for miles around us.

Looking west from Meall Dearg to Sgorr nam Fiannaidh , Aonach Eagach Ridge.GlenCoe 26/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It was starting to get chilly and I suggested that we put our windproof jackets on and started to make a move. From Am Bodach to Meall Dearg (161 584) there is an awkward little down climb. I lead Mary over to it and asked her to have a look see and tell me if she would like a confidence rope. Mary responded with "don't be daft, lets get on with it". Off we went I lead the way down and stayed close so Mary could see where I was going and so I could also talk her through where the foot and hand holds were. Soon we had overcome the 1st challenge and were now standing on top of Meall Dearg a munro looking back to where we had just come from. Mary was very pleased, and asked to continue once we had eaten.

Mary enjoying the scrambling along the Aonach Eagach Ridge, Glen Coe 26/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The main difficulties of the Aonach Eagach lie in between Meall Dearg (161 584) and the munro top of Stob Coire Leith (149 584). A series of pinnacles with exposed ledges in between the pinnacles and some steep exposed scrambling to reach the tops of the pinnacles. Before setting off again I asked if Mary would like a confidence rope and again she declined.

Mary on the Aonach Eagach Ridge, Glen Coe 26/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We set off and taking our time like we had done with the 1st difficult section we slowly made good progress. Mary was starting to relax and was quite clearly enjoying the experience and so was I. Its not often you get to enjoy the Mountains of Glen Coe in fantastic weather with fabulous views. Soon we reached the munro top of Stob Coire Leith without incident. We found ourselves some conveniently placed boulders, sat down for a well earned break and to take in the magnificent scenery all around us.

Looking east from Stob Coire Leith, Meall Dearg & Am Bodach. Aonach Eagach Ridge, Glen Coe 26/08/2012

(Photo: A J Thorley)

Re-energised we continued onto Sgorr nam Fiannaidh (140 583) the final munro that forms part of this magnificent ridge. With the main difficulties over we set a steady pace and arrived at the huge cairn shelter surrounding the remains of the trig point. Mary was beside herself, I'm not quite sure she could take it all in. After all completing the Aonach Eagach is a huge achievement especially for a novice hill walker like Mary.

Believe it or not Mary only developed an interest in hill walking early summer this year and so far has successfully completed probably the two biggest challenges to face a hill walker wanting to complete the munros, The Inaccessable Pinnacle and The Aonach Eagach. Good effort Mary!

The Aonach Eagach Ridge. Looking east from Sgorr nam fiannaidh, Stob Coire Leith, Meall Dearg & Am Bodach. Glen Coe 26/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

There are two options of descent from Sgorr nam Fiannaidh one is to continue along the broad ridge until a small cairn is reached with a path dropping off to the left. This is the quick descent back to the Claichaig Inn (128 567) and descends some very loose scree. Not recommended unless you are actually dying of thirst! It is much easier to continue towards the Pap of Glencoe (125 594) and at the bealach (127 591) pick up the well worn path that descends gently back down  to the roadside (111 586).  We went for the easy option and why not the views across Loch Linnhe to the mountains of Ardgour were spectacular.

Mary at the summit cairn of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh withthe entire Aonach Eagach Ridge in the background. Glen Coe 26/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Within minutes of arriving at the roadside a 4x4 passed, pulled in and the driver very kindly offered us both a lift back along the road to the Clachaig Inn (128 567). We accepted and jumped in. The driver was very chatty and enquired as to where we had been. We said we had just descended from the Aonach Eagach and immediately he offered to take us all the way back to the car park where we had started (175 566).

Me at the summit cairn of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh, Aonach Eagach Ridge. Glen Coe 26/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Reminiscing, he recalled that in the days of his youth he had also traversed the Aonach Eagach and unlike us had no luck getting a lift back to his car and had to walk it. We asked if he was sure, "its quite a way out of your way"? I enquired. "You've walked far enough today, its no trouble at all", he replied. Minutes later we arrived back at the car and waved this generous guy good bye. It was very unexpected but we were both grateful. It was the perfect bit of luck we needed and a great way to end the day.

Looking west from Cnap Glas, the Ballachulish Bridge, Loch Linnhe and the mountains of Ardgour. Glen Coe 26/08/2012
(Photo: A J Thorley)