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Aonach Dubh, Glencoe 08/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)
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Weeping Wall of Aonach Dubh is a place that I have wanted to climb for many years now. I even went out to it last year and systematically photographed the entire area so I could work out where all the climbs started and finished as well as the access to various terraces and the descents back to the corrie floor. So I was very happy to receive a phone call from my friend Iain when I
returned from Neilston Quarry, asking if I fancied a jaunt to Glencoe
to climb Aonach Dubh. My immediate response was to say "yes". The plans were settled and Vicks kindly agreed to drop me off at Stirling Services the following morning so I could meet Iain.
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Gearr Aonach, Glencoe 08/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)
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Iain was already waiting for us at Stirling services, we quickly
unpacked my stuff from Vicks car and packed it into Iain's car. Waved
goodbye to Vicks and headed off to Glencoe. We arrived at the helipad car park (
171 568), at the viewpoint for
The Three Sisters
at around 10am. It was busy and not surprising either, the weather was
glorious. Clear skies, warming sunshine and very little wind. Perfect
weather for enjoying the mountains.
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| Eve's Arete VD*, Weeping Wall. Aonach Dubh, Glencoe 08/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley) |
Quickly we sorted our gear and within no time at all we were on the approach path to Coire na Lochain. From the carpark (
171 568) drop downhill on a well made path to cross a bridge (
167 566)
over the River Coe. The path starts to rise steadily after crossing the
bridge, continue on the well made path until you reach a point where a
faint climbers path forks off to the right (
160 559). Contour around, cross over the stream at a large obvious boulder and you should arrive under Weeping Wall (
157 558) in around 1 hour.
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Iain starting the 2nd pitch of Eve's Arete VD*, Weeping
Wall. Aonach Dubh, Glencoe 08/08/2012 (Photo:
A J Thorley)
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Looking up at the wall whilst we geared up we noticed two parties
starting on their 2nd pitches high above us. It was the boys and girls
from
Glenmore Lodge, they were running an
MIA training course. They
looked to be having a fantastic time and we were eager to get up there
with them, more to the point the
midges were starting to bite!
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Terrace Face, Aonach Dubh. You can just make out the boys
and girls from Glenmore Lodge on their MIA training. Glencoe 08/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)
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I was still feeling nervous and anxious following what had happened in
Wales, so we decided to climb Eve's Arete VD* up onto The Terrace. I
lead the 1st pitch and once I settled down found it pretty straight
forward going. Iain took the second pitch, which is superb for the grade
and involves a very exposed rising traverse. Luckily the holds are
plenty and very positive. From the top of the 2nd pitch up to the insitu
belay at the large tree is a straight forward scramble which I lead.
Iain soon joined me and we both then scrambled up onto The Terrace.
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| Iain coming up the 1st pitch of Archer Ridge S***, Terrace Face. Aonach Dubh, Glencoe 08/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley) |
We located a convenient boulder, quickly had lunch whilst eyeing up the
options and ditched the rucksacks. The next climb was to be Archer Ridge
S***, a climb that I have been wanting to do for a long time. Again I
lead the 1st pitch, it is quite steep but good foot and hand holds. The
protection is sparse but good, even though when looking at the rock it
looks like it would take a lot. Iain soon joined me at the 1st belay
stance and wasted no time at all in starting up the 2nd pitch. It is
steeper than the 1st pitch, but like the 1st pitch the foot and hand
holds are good. The protection is dubious in places and nothing more than
adequate. Overall it's a fantastic climb and I really enjoyed it.
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| Me topping out on Archer Ridge S***, Terrace Face. Aonach
Dubh, Glencoe 08/08/2012 (Photo: A J
Thorley) |
Two great climbs in the bag, amazingly good weather and time to do more!
There is a wet gully at the back of Terrace Face we descended this
carefully back to the base ready for our next climb.
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Iain on the 1st pitch of De Vreemde Stap HVS**, Terrace
Face. Aonach Dubh, Glencoe 08/08/2012 (Photo:
A J Thorley)
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Iain fancied something a little more challenging and decided we go for
De Vreemde Stap HVS**. I wasn't so sure but Iain talked me into it. Iain
led the 1st pitch which from below looked fairly straight forward with
one awkward move just before the 1st belay stance. I was right it was an
awkward move, but I got it and joined Iain at the 1st stance.
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Me on the 2nd pitch of De Vreemde
Stap HVS**, Terrace Face. Aonach Dubh, Glencoe 08/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)
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"Are you leading this pitch?" Iain asked in his usual inquisitive,
happy go lucky manner. I agreed, knowing I couldn't say no. We swapped
gear. I was very nervous at 1st. Thankfully Iain's joking, "smile for
the camera" and "relax, enjoy the climbing" tactics worked. I settled
down, lead the pitch and thoroughly enjoyed it. It was a fantastic pitch
in a superb position. Iain romped up and joined me in the basin. Our next route was to be Hesitation HVS**, it looked intimidating. It
follows a rightward trending groove to below a huge imposing overhang.
Once under the overhang you traverse left and upwards until it is
possible to break through the overhang on the right to finish on the
ledge above.
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Higher up, me on the 2nd pitch of De Vreemde Stap
HVS**, Terrac Face. Aonach Dubh, Glencoe 08/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)
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Again
Iain was to lead the 1st pitch. He set off and was making good progress
until he realised that he had missed the rightward trending traverse
ledge and was now faced with the prospect of finishing the climb in one
huge pitch. Faced with friable rock, poor protection and a very airy
traverse Iain managed to get back on track and made it below the huge
overhang. Unfortunately above the belay stance so he had no choice but
to continue. It took a long time but in the end Iain finished the climb
and shouted to me to climb. I found the climbing quite easy until I got
under the overhangs, it was awkward and I don't think being tall helped.
It put up a good fight and eventually after some swearing and cursing I
reach the point to break through. It got harder, ten-fold! It was an
exhilarating finale to the climb, powerful, technical and committing. I
loved every minute of it. Arriving on the ledge I shook Iain's hand and
took in the experience.
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Iain getting psyched ready to break through the roof of
Hesitation HVS**, Terrace Face. Aonach Dubh, Glencoe 08/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)
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It was getting late and we quickly coiled the ropes and descended the gully again back to the base of Terrace Face. Changed back into our approach shoes, packed our rucksacks and scrambled down to the insitu belay above Weeping Wall. Uncoiled the ropes, tied them together and threaded the belay. We abseiled down, again coiled the ropes, took off our harnesses and helmets. Packed the rucksacks and started the walk out back to the car.
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Am Badach, Aonach Eagach Ridge. Glencoe 08/08/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)
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The views on the walk out of the Anoch Eagach (
161 584 &
140 583) were phenomenal and the perfect way to end an amazing days climbing in Glencoe.
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