A' Chioch, Cioch Nose S 4a****. 12th July 2012

The alarm went off at 5:45am and soon there was a flurry of activity as brews were made, breakfast was put on and climbing equipment checked and packed. Iain had been up for some time and was just about packed up. He had unfortunately received a call to say he had to return home.

The start of Cioch Nose S**** (Photo: A J Thorley)

It wasn't long before we were on the road and heading back to Bealach na Ba (774 425). The weather forecast was for clear skies but all we could see was low cloud. Undeterred we shouldered our packs and off we went.

Me on the first pitch of Cioch Nose S***, A' Chioch. Sgurr a' Chaorachain 12/7/2012  (Photo: A J Thorley)

The approach from Bealach na Ba is straight forward, take the 4x4 track and walk east to the telephone mast (785 424). A baring of 94 degrees from the mast should take you across the top of the descent gully (787 424). There is a faint track, the descent is steep at first but soon eases as the floor of Coire a' Chaorachain is reached.

Me on the second pitch of Cioch Nose S****, A' Chioch. Sgurr a' Chaorachain 12/07/2012  (Photo: A J Thorley)

Continue to follow the faint track, not obvious in places to the base of South Gully (795 426). There is a small scramble up here and you will come to the climbers track at the top of the lower tier at a height of 400m. take the lower track and traverse around until you come to an awkward step up. Step up and CN with an arrow is scratched on the rock at the start (795 426). The walk to here is around 1 hr 30 minutes at a gentle pace.

Me starting the exposed third pitch of Cioch Nose S****, A' Chioch. Sgurr a' Chaorachain 12/07/2012  (Photo: A J Thorley)

Upon arrival at the start of the climb we were still unsure as to whether or not to start. The weather did not look as if it was going to break up. We decided to have a snack and gear up anyways.

Vicks on the third pitch of Cioch Nose S****, A' Chioch. Sgurr a' Chaorachain 12/07/2012  (Photo: A J Thorley)

In the end we decided just to go for it. At first I was a little nervous, but the nerves soon eased as I got to grips with the task ahead. By the time I reached the belay stance at the top of the first pitch, I was back to my relaxed self and could see the clouds were starting to break up.

Vicks & Mary at the final belay stance, Cioch Nose S****, A' Chioch. Sgurr a' Chaorachain 12/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The second pitch was excellent, the chimney was great fun and I thoroughly enjoyed it. But the best was to come.

Mary coming up the final pitch of Cioch Nose S****, A' Chioch. Sgurr a' Chaorachain 12/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The third pitch is superb and wonderfully exposed, looking down through my legs it was almost a 500m vertical drop! The line zig zags but I think you could take a direct line, protection is good, hand and foot holds a plenty.

Vicks abseiling down South Gully, Sgurr a' Chaorachain 12/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Once I had finished the third pitch I set up my belay and shouted to Mary to start climbing. Unknown to me Mary was frightened and actually crying as the exposure had got to her. This was going to be the hardest challenge Mary had ever faced.

The views from the telephone mast on Sgurr a' Chaorachain 12/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Slowly but nervously Mary started to climb and with Vicks support from below and my support from above Mary made it to the top of the third pitch, trembling but smiling. After spending some time reassuring Mary, Mary declared "I didn't think I would make it. For fxxx sake!" I shouted to Vicks to climb.

Me taking in the views, Sgurr a' Chaorachain 12/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The fourth and fifth pitches were both straight forward and soon we were all sitting on the top of A' Chioch enjoying our lunches, laughing and joking about our achievement.

A' Chioch, Sgurr a' Chaorachain 12/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

We had planned to do the Traverse of A' Chioch from this point but time had yet again ran away from us and having spent an hour basking in the sunshine we decided to abseil down South Gully.

Beinn Alligin on the return drive back to Torridon campsite 12/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The initial down climb to the in situ abseil point is steep but straight forward. Once at the abseil point it is 3 short abseils to the base of South Gully. All three abseils use in situ abseil points. We were back to where we started in no time.

Sunset over Loch Torridon on the drive back to Torridon campsite 12/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Tired and happy we took a slow walk back to the car and returned to Torridon campsite. I got supper on whilst the girls showered and soon we were all eating, drinking and celebrating an amazing adventure. Thanks Vicks and Mary, it was a great day!