Savage Slit S***, No4 Buttress. Coire An Lochain, Cairngorms. 23rd July 2012

Having managed to return home early yesterday from The Cobbler, I checked and packed the climbing equipment, sorted the camping stuff and soon we were on the road heading north to Aviemore (893 126). During the drive we decided that we were going to stay at Glenmore campsite (976 097) which is only a short walk from Glenmore Lodge (987 095) that serves excellent food. We arrived late and only just managed to get onto the campsite before the gates were locked. Quickly we set about the task of pitching the tent. Soon we were settled and started making our plans for the following day. It was now very late 11:45pm. Having settled on Savage Slit S***, we turned in for the night.

Me on the walk in to Coire an Lochain, Northern Corries 23/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The alarm clock went off at 8am, reluctantly we started getting ready. During the night the wind speed had increased to gale force and the constant flapping of the tent woke us both on numerous occasions. Soon the smiles and enthusiasm returned as the kettle boiled and the hot brews were made. Breakfast was as many cereal bars as you could scoff and another hot brew.

Changing weather, you wouldn't think the wind speed was gusting up to 50mph. Northern Corries 23/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

It did not take long to dismantle the tent and soon we were packing our climbing packs with our equipment ready for the off. It was 9:30am when we arrived at the Coire Cas car park (989 061) home to the Cairngorm Mountain Resort. Just as we arrived the rain started, following my soaking yesterday on The Cobbler I wasn't keen to get soaked again. The kettle was put on and the hot brews made, by the time we finished our brew the rain had cleared. Packs shouldered we were off!

The Cairngorm reindeer, Northern Corries 23/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The walk into Coire an Lochain (982 029) from Coire Cas car park (989 061) is straight forward. Take the well worn path from just below the ski lifts (989 059) and walk in a southwesterly direction, ignore the 1st split in the path and continue on the main path. Cross the river (985 052) Allt Coire a t-Sneachda within a hundred metres the path splits again. 

 

Coire an Lochain after the 1st downpour, you can see the water pouring off the Great Slab. Northern Corries 23/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)


Take the left path again travelling in a south westerly direction. The path is well defined at first but soon disappears as you approach Coire an Lochain, around 1 hr 15min carrying heavy packs.

Savage Slit S***, No 4 Buttress. Coire an Lochain, Northern Corries 23/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

On our approach we were treated to the usual array of fine Scottish weather. Gale force winds, heavy downpours and sunshine. At first the corries are hidden from view but soon they come into view. With Coire an Lochain now clearly in our sight our pace quickened as our excitement grew.

Me approaching the first belay stance of Savage Slit S***, Northern Corries 23/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

In what seemed like no time at all we located a convenient boulder by one of the lochains and started to gear up.  It started raining again and we were being battered by the winds. At this point we were in two minds, shall we, won't we. In the end we decided to go for it!


Me getting to grips with the 2nd pitch. Savage Slit S***, Northern Corries 23/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)



From where we geared up the rock looked to be dry and we convinced ourselves that the wind was blowing the rain straight over the tops of the cliffs. Upon arrival at the base of No 4 Buttress (983 025)  we discovered everything was soaked. On the positive side the rain had stopped, we were sheltered from the wind and the skies were brightening up.




Me resting high up on the second pitch. Savage Slit S***, Norther Corries 23/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Cautiously I climbed the first pitch to just below the start of the corner crack, it started to rain again. I down climbed back to the base. At this point I was furious, if the rain would only stop for a couple of hours the climb would go! We waited for a while and the rain stopped. I climbed to my previous high point and quickly made good use of the in situ belay point at the first belay stance. Vicks made short work of the first pitch and quickly joined me.



Me at either the 2nd or 3rd belay stance of Savage Slit S***. The weather had changed for the worse and the rain started to pour down. Northern Corries 23/07/2012. (Photo: A J Thorley)

It took a few minutes to flake the ropes and have a quick double check and I was off. As soon as I started the second pitch the rain started again. I'm not sure if my soaking yesterday contributed, but I soon started to feel the cold and my hands soon numbed. The second pitch put up a good fight and it took me a long time to complete it. I was relieved to find another in situ belay at the second belay stance. By this time Vicks was feeling the cold, it took me a while to sort myself out, but soon Vicks was on belay and climbing. Vicks had a tough time with the second pitch, the cold and wet was getting to her. 

Vicks nervously starting the second long abseil down. Savage Slit S***, Northern Corries 23/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

From the top of the second pitch, the mood became very sombre. To finish the climb it would take a lot. The higher we climbed, the more we were being exposed to the wind. With us both soaked and a strong cold wind biting at us very little was said and we just got on with it. To be honest I don't remember much of the third and fourth pitch I was just concentrating on finishing.  We topped out to a ferocious wind and looking around we could see the weather was getting worse. I didn't even speak to Vicks, just signalled with my thumb in a downwards direction. Vicks nodded in agreement and we abseiled off.

It's a long way down, me just getting ready to abseil off Savage Slit S***, Northern Corries 23/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Returning to our packs we munched quickly, drank some water, put the ropes away, shouldered our packs and still wearing harnesses walked out.  After a steady pace we soon warmed and looking back I declared, "we climbed that!". Back at the car we threw the gear into the back, jumped in and headed off to Glenmore Lodge for a warm, meal and a well earned pint!



Me abseiling down Savage Slit S***, Northern Corries 23/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)