Coire na Banachdaich, Window Buttress 14th July 2012

This morning was to be the final day of our trip to the northwest of Scotland. Yet again the alarm went off early, but this time the sound of heavy rain on the tent persuaded us to have a lie in.

Coire na Banachdaich 14/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The original plan was to walk into the impressive Coir' A' Ghrunnda (448 196) and climb on the White Slabs, South East Face of Sron na Ciche (447 198). This is one of the few cliffs of the Cuillen I have not climbed, but taking into account the rain, increased wind speed and the long walk in, it was quickly decided to opt for an easier outing. After quickly flicking through the guide I suggested Window Buttress and the classic VD Window Buttress Original Route, I route that I first climbed over fifteen years ago.

The start of Window Buttress Original Route, the cairn can be just seen in the bottom left. Window Buttress 14/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Window Buttress is probably one of the most accessible buttresses on the Cuillin and is easily approached from the Glen Brittle Memorial Hut (411 216). In good weather it can clearly be seen from the road. Take the well worn path on the south side of the river Allt Coire na Banachdich, pass the spectacular waterfall Eas Mor (419 215). Continue on this track into Coire na Banachdich and within an hour of easy walking you will arrive at the lower slabs of Window Buttress (437 217). A huge cairn below the buttress marks the start of Window Buttress Original Route VD*** and is used as the reference point to locate all the climbs on the lower buttress.

Me starting Window Buttress VD*** in the pouring rain, Window Buttress. Coire na Banachdaich 14/07/2012

 (Photo: A J Thorley)

On the walk in we were treated to the usual array of fine Scottish weather, heavy rain, sunshine, wind, low cloud and drizzle, sunshine back to heavy rain. Upon arrival at the start of our climb we were all soaked, cold and in two minds on whether or not to start climbing. After looking at the skies, snacking and putting on extra layers we decided to go for it, the cloud looked to be breaking up.

Me just finishing the first pitch of Window Buttress VD***, Window Buttress. Coire na Banachdaich 14/07/2012

(Photo: A J Thorley)

As soon as I started the first pitch the heavens opened and the wind picked up. Undeterred I continued, with my hands soaked and a cold wind blowing my hands soon became numb and what would normally be a straight forward climb would soon turn into a classic struggle. With water now pouring off the rock down by back and with numb hands I finally overcame the crux section of the first pitch. I wedged my whole body into the upper crack relieved that I could rest. At this point the sensation known to most climbers came over me... the hot aches. Its a horrible sensation and dreadfully painful. I've seen climbers vomit and in some cases briefly pass out. After 5 minutes or so the sensation eased and I continued to the first belay stance, it took longer than I expected. Today was not going to be easy.

Vicks finishing the second pitch of Window Buttress VD***, Window Buttress. Coire na Banachdaich 14/07/2012

(Photo: A J Thorley)

By the time Mary and Vicks joined me on the first belay stance I was cold, shivering and eager to move on. The second pitch was as enjoyable as the first time I climbed it, to my relief the rain had stopped an we were treated to some much needed warming sunshine.

Me high up on the third pitch of Window Buttress VD***, Window Buttress. Coire na Banachdaich 14/07/2012

(Photo: A J Thorley)

It was still cold, but the second belay stance is nicely sheltered and the opportunity to scoff some food in shelter was not missed. Re-energised the third and fourth pitch both went very easily, you can just about climb anywhere at around the same grade.

Me belaying at the Window, Window Buttress VD***, Window Buttress, Coire na Banachdaich 14/07/2012

(Photo: A J Thorley)

Soon we reached the top of Window Buttress, there is an easy short walk off to the descent gully behind Window Buttress and it can be down climbed either left or right. We decided after the effort put in to get this far to take Bishops Route D up onto the broad west ridge of Sgurr Dearg (441 214) and walk off this way in a westerly direction back to the Glen Brittle Memorial Hut.

Mary starting the third pitch of Window Buttress VD***, Window Buttress. Coire na Banachdaich 14/07/2012

 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Although cold, with cloud level now falling again and drizzle, Bishops route turned out to be very pleasant. It seemed to take no time at all to climb the two pitches, but a check of the watch revealed otherwise. It was approaching 8pm!

Me leading up the final scramble of Upper Window Buttress, Coire na Banachdaich 14/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

From the top of Bishops Route to the well worn foot path on the west ridge of Sgurr Dearg is an easy straight forward scramble and it was not long before we were walking off discussing the days adventure and most importantly supper.

The Bay of Glen Brittle 14/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

Supper was served at 10pm and with plenty of hot food and cold ale we celebrated our achievements. The drinking, laughing and joking continued into the early hours. It was a fitting end to our trip to the northwest of Scotland and I'm very much looking forward to returning soon.

Window Buttress 14/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

The following day brought heavy rain, we packed up our soaked tents and headed to Broadford for a Scottish breakfast before embarking on the long drive back to Glasgow.


Rum 14/07/2012 (Photo: A J Thorley)

I thoroughly enjoyed this adventure and have many lasting memories. A huge thanks to Iain, Mary and Vicks. It was awesome.